276 GEOGEAPHICAL RESULTS OF THE TIBET MISSION. 



a degraded, nasty, sensual looking lot they were. It is altogether a 

 mistake to suppose that in Tibet is to be found a pure and lofty form 

 of Buddhism. Buddliism and Chinese civilization certainly have 

 raised the rough tribes who, six or seven centuries ago, inhabited 

 Tibet into something very much higher than they Avere before these 

 appeared. But intellectual and spiritual life is stifled by tlie rigorous 

 monastic rule. All foreign ideas and individual originality have so 

 far been trampled down. And the Tesult is a people of inflexible 

 rigidity, wholly unable to adapt themselves to altering conditions, 

 and without any intellectual force or spiritual impetus. We sought 

 for, but did not find, the wonderful Mahatmas, who would lead us to 

 more lofty peaks of light and wisdom than ever we had trod before. 

 And while I would not deny that Buddhism has done much to tame 

 and civilize a barbarous race of demon worshipers in Tibet, I would 

 warn those who would look to Lassa for any kind of higher intellec- 

 tual or spiritual guidance, to seek nearer home for what they need. 

 Imbued, as the Tibetans are, with much of that impassive contentment 

 inculcated by Buddha, they are still, to all intents and purposes, 

 demon Avorshipers. Their religion is grotesque, and is the most 

 degraded, not the purest, form of Buddhism in existence. 



Happily we were able to entirely overcome that feeling of obstruc- 

 tion which the heads of Tibetan Church had so far shown to out- 

 siders. Through Mr. Wilton's influence with the Chinese officials, 

 and Mr. White's connection of many years' standing with the Tibetan 

 lamas in Sikkim, and his tactful suasion, we were able to gain access 

 to all the monasteries and temples, and before we left Lassa British 

 officers Avent in and out with as little concern as they would to St. 

 Paul's. T insisted upon having the convention signed in the Potala, 

 and in the finest hall in it, and once the lamas saw no harm resulted, 

 and we invariably treated them with consideration, they entirely 

 withdrew their obstruction, and when, just before leaving Lassa, I 

 paid a formal visit to the great cathedral called Jo Khang, I was 

 surprised to find them actually pressing me to come inside the rail- 

 ings and walk round the magnificent image of Buddha — a freedom 

 I have never had accorded me in any templein India. 



I fear I have not sufficient time to adequately describe these mon- 

 asteries and temples. Outside they were solid and massive, though 

 hardly beautiful. Inside they were weird and quaint, and some- 

 times grotesque. I carried away Avith me an impression of immense 

 impassive figures of Buddha forcA-er gazing calmly and tranquilly 

 doAvnward, of Avails painted Avith grotesque demons "and dragons, of 

 highly decorated Avooden columns and roofs, of general dirt and 

 griminess, and of innumerable boAvls of butter burning night and 

 day, as candles are burnt in Koman Catholic churches before figures 

 of the saints. 



