40 



CHAPTER III. 



FEOM CAIEO TO ASSOUAN. 



The regular tour by dahabeah up the Nile is by far the most 

 pleasant way of seeing Egypt, as it is free from all the annoy- 

 ances of waiting for trains or camels, attendant upon a tent- 

 life in a country where there are no hotels save at Alexandria, 

 Cairo, Suez, and Port Said : and it is really enjoyable ; for, when 

 once the contract has been signed, there are no further troubles 

 in store, unless one has been exceptionally unlucky in the 

 choice of a dragoman. All goes smoothly; the dahabeah, 

 roomy and clean after one's own choice, is extremely com- 

 fortable, and all our requirements are at hand The progress 

 may be slow ; but, as we are constantly advancing, it conquers 

 distance, while the panorama of Egypt unfolds itself before 

 us, ever changing, and, throughout our course, studded with 

 ruins of a bygone race which cannot fail to excite the admira- 

 tion and interest of all who see them. 



First we pass the Pyramids of Geezeh, Sakkara, and 

 Dashoor ; one of these, known as the pyramid of Mycerinus, 

 or Menkera, is said to have been built by a woman who, on 

 account of her great beauty, was called Rhodopis, or the 

 rosy-cheeked one, and who became Queen of Egypt. Moore 

 has availed himself of a legend connected with this Pyramid 

 in his ' Melodies ' : — 



