4 ALEXANDKIA. 



more generally in high discordant tones, each considering 

 himself aggrieved by the others. Now we have to select one 

 of these boats to convey us and our luggage on shore ; so we 

 take one with a dragoman, or guide, who can speak a few 

 words of English. He is dressed in a short jacket very 

 much embroidered, loose sky-blue lower garments, much re- 

 sembling a bag, through which his feet protrude, decked 

 in red leather shoes and cotton socks, which hang loosely 

 about his feet. His complexion is a sallow bronze, his eyes 

 are narrow, dark, and deep-set, and the only hair upon his 

 face is a neat black moustache. He is a Syrian by birth, 

 a dragoman by profession, and a rogue by nature. Into his 

 hands do we confide ourselves, knowing how impossible it is 

 to do any thing for ourselves in this land of " backsheesh." 

 We are not detained long at the Custom-house — the only con- 

 traband articles being fire-arms and ammunition, with both 

 of which we are well supplied. They are, however, passed, 

 unchallenged of course, with a knowing look, on our present- 

 ing a well-known and never-failing passport ; and we then 

 proceed to the Hotel Abbat, one of the most comfortable 

 hotels in Alexandria. 



Here it soon becomes known that we are going up the 

 Nile, and shall require a dragoman ; consequently we are 

 speedily set upon by this Egyptian species of harpy, each 

 individual ready to take us by the day, month, or tour, upon 

 such terms as they all endeavour to prove clearly would 

 make them losers rather than gainers by the transaction. 

 Their estimates generally varied from £400 to £600 for a 

 tour of three months or for the journey to the Second Cataract 

 and back — a perfectly absurd price for two people. Sooner, 

 almost, than we had settled in our own minds that a certain 



