THE iMOUNTAINEER 3(i 



Notes on the Geography of the Olympics 



By HENRY LANDES 



FRO]\r British C()lnni1)ia to Lower California there rises from the sea 

 au almost coiitinnoiis line of mountains which constitutes the coast 

 ranges. In general they are much lower than the next great mountain bul- 

 wark to the east, from which they are separated by a long north-south 

 trough or valley. The winding coastal ranges have different names in 

 different places, and the Washington segment is known as the Olympic 

 mountains. The Olympics extend from the Columbia river to the Straits 

 of Juan de Ftiea but it is only north of Gra.y's Harbor that they represent 

 a conspicuous mountainous area. Between Columbia river and Gray's 

 Harbor the mountains are characterized by low ridges which do not exceed 

 3000 feet in height. The northern Olympics alone, or that large triangular 

 area bounded by the Pacific ocean, Strait of San Juan de Fuca, and Hood's 

 canal, will be considered in this article. 



With the exceptions of some portions of Alaska perhaps, the Olympic 

 mountains represent the least known part of the United Stales. They are 

 scarcely known at all from the standpoint of geography or geology, and 

 their fauna and Hora have been but little studied. They have been pene- 

 trated in ceriain directions by occasional small exploring parties and 

 yearly a few hunters and prospectors make their way into the mountain 

 wilds. The usual routes of entrance are by way of the larger valleys, 

 usually the J]lwha, Quilcene, Quiniault, or Soleduck. All the routes of 

 ingress are difficult because of the dense forest growth, ;lie canyons along 

 the stieams, and the general ruggedness of the region. When well into 

 the mountains the elk trails are generally followed by the explorer, and 

 these must serve until an increasing interest in this little known region 

 compels the construction of permanent roads. 



From Hood's canal and de Fuca strait the Olympics rise abruptly from 

 the sea, with a very narrow lowland margin. The only breaks in the solid 

 rocky wall are the gi-eat chasms where the streams come from out the moun- 

 tain interior to join the sea. Along the course of each stream, canyons 

 alternate with wide valleys, according as the rocks vary from those highly 

 resistant to erosion to those which are worn away with ease. Between the 

 major valleys stand the high ridges which mark the stream divides. Cap- 

 I)iiig the ridges are occasional lofty sentinels, such as Constance and The 

 Bi-others, usually in the form of gi'eat needles and spires and giving ;i 

 marked sierra effect. When the interior of the mountains is gained, fol- 

 lowing up one of the lai'ger valleys, there seems to be a very nuirked uni- 

 formity in the heights of the i-idges or divides, indicating a general plateau 

 character. In othei- woids there are large numbers of high ridges and 

 mountain peaks of hciulits approximately the same, giving in an extended 

 panorama a rathci- even sky-line. It iiuiy be tentatively suggested that the 

 Olympics represi iit a I'egion oiire worn down lu'nrly to a base level, and 

 then uplifted to a height of about SddO feet ;d)ove the sea and subse(|Uently 

 eroded by streams of watei- and ice to their pci'sent rugged outlines. The 

 higher peaks, such as Olyni])ns, represent more resistant masses which in 

 the former period of erosion did not I't aeh a ti'ue base level. The forces of 

 upheaval, it may be said, prejjared a mighty block of I'ock, out of which 



