The Mountaineer 7 



the Carbon Glacier. This was accomplished in time to 

 permit the advance part of the pack train to go on 

 into Moraine Park without delay. Here camp was 

 established, quarters assigned to the men and women, 

 commissary housed in its own tents and plans made 

 for the try-out trips. These served a double purpose, 

 to see the surrounding country with the greatest pos- 

 sible dispatch and to drill members of the party and 

 try their mettle. The first try-out trip was to the Win- 

 throp Glacier, the second across the Carbon into Spray 

 Park, the third with small packs across the Winthrop 

 Glacier to St. Elmo Pass. 



In the meantime Mr. L. A. Nelson, Mr. Grant W. 

 Humes and myself had made a trip to the head of 

 Inter Glacier and selected a site for temporary camp 

 on Ruth Mountain. This camp spot had been sug- 

 gested by Prof. J. B. Flett, who had previously climbed 

 from here. 



When making this preliminary trip we had hoped 

 to make the ascent, but were unable to do so because 

 of a storm. On July 28 Nelson and Humes went on to 

 temporary camp, and on July 29 made the ascent, going 

 up the ice field that forms the head of the White and 

 Winthrop Glaciers. They were forced to cut steps con- 

 siderable of the way because the snow slopes were 

 steep and frozen. I was prevented from joining them 

 in this ascent by a broken shoulder. This ascent, made 

 over untried country by two men who had to break 

 trail or cut steps so much of the way, ranks as the most 

 diflScult one made by members of the club. 



While they were climbing the main party of seventy- 

 seven came up to temporary camp and met them on 

 their return from the summit. Their strenuous climb 

 discouraged a number from attempting the ascent, and 

 on the following morning seventeen turned back, leav- 

 ing a party of sixty-two. 



The spot chosen for camp was a ridge of boulders 



