8 The Mountaineer 



and volcanic ash between Inter Glacier and the main 

 White. (Plate 5.) Beds were made by laying a line 

 of large rocks below to keep from rolling out and down 

 the mountain. The looser earth was then dragged 

 doAvn to make a softer couch. The greater part of the 

 party had sleeping bags, which afforded ample protec- 

 tion from the intense cold that followed the setting of 

 the sun. 



July 30 broke clear and beautiful, and the party in 

 seven companies moved out from camp, dropping to 

 the White Glacier and winding upward among long 

 crevasses. The only object by which elevation could be 

 judged or distance measured was the peak, Little Ta- 

 horaa. As we slowly toiled upward we seemed to gain 

 so little on the elevation of this peak that the effect was 

 disheartening. At last it could be seen that we had 

 topped its highest point of red basalt, and we knew 

 we were nearing the 12,000-foot level. Only 2,500 feet 

 above us was the summit, and in unbroken line the 

 party was climbing easily. The try-out days in line 

 had been irksome to many, but their value was proven 

 here. But few could have stood alone on the slopes 

 that now measured 45 degrees and ended in broken 

 crevasses. Fewer still could have endured the strain of 

 breaking steps in the hard snow, always with that 

 white blur running upward to the blue sky, and down 

 ward until the eye grew dizzy following where miles 

 away the ice and forest mingled. The only safety lay 

 in watching the steps ahead and moving forward as 

 the signal was given. At 12,500 feet I passed along 

 the line to see how everyone was taking it, and reached 

 Dr. Van Horn at the head of Company D. As he rec- 

 ognized me he said: "Curtis, this is no place for the 

 father of eight children." 



I could not help wondering how many more had 

 reached the same conclusion. It had been impossible 

 to rest for more than a moment, because there was no 



