260 ANNUAT ItFPOKT 



VAUIETIES. 



We have now come to a very critical point in our paper. Min- 

 nesota is a large State and presents a diversity of soils and climate. 

 For the southeastern parts I would recommend Duchess of Olden- 

 burg, Wealthy, St. Lawrence, Tallman Sweet, Walbridge, Fa- 

 meusp, Utter or Cooper, Plumb's Cider and Willow Twig. These 

 will be pretty sure to live and bear fruit in paying quantities as far 

 north as Lake Pepin and not more than two counties west. North 

 and west of this drop the Plumb's Cider and Willow Twig and add 

 Tetofski. If there are other varieties that are known to succeed 

 in any neighborhood they may be planted in that vicinity. Where 

 the common apple will succeed plant Whitney's No. 20, Powers' 

 large red Virginia and Maiden's Blush crabs in limited quantities. 

 Conical, Beeches' Sweet, Orange, Minnesota and Quaker Beauty 

 are also good varieties. For the more unfavored localities and the 

 north and west, I can only say plant Duchess, Tetofski and 

 Wealthy for fruit, and the Wallbridge and Tallman Sweet and 

 other varieties for trial. Drop the Minnesota from the crabs and 

 add Pride of Minneapolis and Early Staw berry, and if you care to 

 risk the blight, the Transcendent. There may be something better, 

 but I have not seen them. 



BUDDING AND GRAFTING. 



These arts are easily mastered but much better taught by object 

 lessons than I can do it on paper. The operation of budding is 

 usually performed upon trees or branches from one to three years 

 old, and can only be done in the growing season. It consists in 

 separating a bud with a portion of the bark attached from a shoot 

 of the current season's growth, and inserting it beneath the bark 

 of another tree or branch and binding it in place with a string 

 until it has grown fast and become a part of the tree. This bud is 

 expected to remain dormant until the next spring, when the tree 

 or branch is to be cut away to within two or three inches of the 

 bud, and after it has started to grow all that part of the stock 

 above is to be cut away and the bud grows on and eventually 

 becomes the top or branch of the tree. The best season for bud- 

 ding in this climate is between the middle of July and 20th of 

 August. The buds should be well developed in the axil of the 

 leaf of the shoot intended to bud from, and the bark must rise 

 Ireelv from the stock to be budded on; and this only happens when 



