120 ANNUAL REPOET 



the knife indispensable in keeping the trees in proper shape. But my advice is to 

 let your trees branch low and do but little pruning. Millions of trees have been 

 destroyed by pruning, and this is more true in our northern climate than else- 

 where, but it is true everywhere. Each wound made by the knife or saw is a dan- 

 ger and an injury. By beginning right and making the subject a study, trees need 

 no pruning except such as may be done by the thumb and finger, and in this way 

 may be grown to maturity without a scar. Yet sometimes we have ill-grown trees 

 that must be pruned. When this is the case the first question is as to the proper 

 season. The governing principle in all cases is to have as small an exposed surface 

 as possible for the winter's cold to act upon. This excludes fall pruning in our 

 climate altogether. When pruning is done early in the spring the wound will go 

 on healing all summer, and many of the smaller cuts will be nearly or quite healed 

 by fall. If it should be necessary to take off a larger branch than would likely 

 heal over, better cut a little from the trunk, leaving a spur about an inch or two- 

 long, which should be covered well with paint or some clastic water-proof cement. 

 Manuring is as indispensable in keeping up the fertility of the soil of an orchard 

 as for other growing crops, but should not be applied too liberally, especially near 

 the trunks of the trees. When the orchard comes into bearing and the growth of 

 the trees no longer permit the use of the plow, then it should be seeded down with 

 clover or some other grass that will not make a compact sod, especially above the 

 trunks of the trees. 



We now come to that part of our subject which treats of the winter protection- 

 of orchards. In the first place, if your trees are not sufficiently hardy for the cli- 

 mate, better give them over to the tender mercies of the winter winds at once. 

 Some advantage may be taken in selecting a site for an orchard for even the Du- 

 chess and Wealthy are not hardy in many localities. It is generally admitted that 

 high ground is less subject to the extremes of heat and cold during the winter than 

 low land, and a northwestern exposure is perhaps the best on account of the frost 

 remaining in the ground longer in the spring, thus keeping back the circulation of 

 sap until the proper time for the commencement of the season's growth. If, by 

 any means, the sap could be kept in check until the hot days and cold nights that 

 intervene between winter and spring is past, then we should hear less complaint o 

 sun scald on the south side of our apple trees. I do not know but there is some 

 analogy between sun scald and blight, and the cause of the one may in some meas- 

 ure be productive of the other. Protection from prevailing winds, especially the 

 fall and winter winds, is very desirable, and for this purpose wind breaks of spruce, 

 pine or arborvitae planted around and through the orchard are worth far more 

 than they cost, and if well cared for add much to the beauty and value of the 

 grounds. 



While the trees are young and the bark tender, rabbits and mice esteem it a 

 privilege to have free access to the orchard, and sometimes before the owner is 

 aware many trees are damaged beyond recovery. Blood or offal of most an\- kind 

 sprinkled on the bark will keep away the rabbits, and working the ground up to 

 the trees, or a small mound of earth thrown up around them will usually keep off 

 the mice. This last precaution is also necessary when trees happen to stand in 

 low spots and where the water is liable to freeze around tkem. I have knowri 

 many trees to be girdled in this way. 



