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purposes, a strong plow and a good team of horses, taking the rows cross-way on, will 
easily rid the ground of roots, or so loosen them that they can be got out with a drag, 
at less than half the cost of stubbing by the spade in the ordinary way. 
Nearly all the writers on the subject of willow-planting recommend that the first 
year’s shoots, after planting, remain on the stools, not to be cut until the second year... 
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Osier willow. 
The reason assigned for which plan is, that the roots may get better and firmer hold 
of the ground before they are disturbed by cutting. In whatever light this is viewed 
J hold it to be radically wrong; for, should the first year’s crop (which is usually the 
case) be short, full of shoots at the sides, and dwindling, they would be of no value 
whatever if allowed to stand for two-year olds. The value of a two-year-old willow 
depends entirely upon the shank, or first year’s shoots, being long and straight; the 
second year’s growth merely adding thickness and solidity. Should the first year’s 
shoots be allowed to remain—the roots having obtained so little hold of the ground— 
the wind will act upon the long shoots as a lever, and loosen the roots much more than 
careful cutting would do. 
In the majority of cases the first crop will be nearly worthless, but if carefully cut 
off, the second crop will be of considerable value. 
He then enforces the necessity of keeping the ground clear of weeds, 
and proceeds to give the following directions with regard to cutting and 
preparing the plant: 
Whether the crop is intended to be used green, or to be peeled, it ought to be eut off 
in the months of November and December, and the land stirrred up with the plow. 
If cut off at this time the buds remaining on the stools will swell during the winter, 
and be much more likely to put forth vigorous shoots than if cut off nearer the spring, and 
the land will receive the benefit of the winter’s frost by being broken up. The rods 
must not, in any case, be cut until the leaf has fallen, or a flow of sap will follow the 
knife, and the plant will be weakened in consequence. For cutting close to the ground 
a heavy, hooked knife, cranked near the handle, must be used; it must be very sharp, 
and the cutting stroke must be sharp and decisive; each stool or root must be cleared 
by one stroke, the rods being held tightly in the left hand. If any plant is found de- 
fective or dead remove it, and stick into the vacant place a full-grown rod, and let it 
stand to grow. If a short cutting is put in, the surrounding plants will, in all proba- 
bility, smother it, and prevent its growing. 
Cutting is generally paid for by the bundle, the price in the midland counties being 
2s. 6d. per score bundles, 3 feet girth when tightly tied up. The tie or band should be 
about 8 or 9 inches from the butt or root end of the rods, and the measure be taken 
