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PRUNING SHADE AND ORNAMENTAL TREES. 129 
PRUNING SHADE AND ORNAMENTAL TREES FOR 
THE STREET AND LAWN. 
FRED NUSSBAUMER, SUPERINTENDENT OF PARKS, ST. PAUL. 
The art of trimming shade and ornamental trees for the street and lawn 
ais a subject of such important nature that it should receive the most careful 
consideration, not only by your society but by every tree lover. 
To begin with, I feel almost tempted to discuss the art of how not to 
trim trees. A lover of trees feels pained to see the mutilation and reckless 
amputation of noble trees planted along our avenues by some so-called pro- 
fessional tree-trimmer, who should be called by his proper name “tree 
butcher,” who generally does not know enough of the nature of tree growth 
to be able to make a distinction in his work between a cottonwood and a 
thard maple, to which he applies his saw in an equally fiendlike manner, with 
the result of utter ruin to a once promising tree. 
I know of sugar maples being trimmed by a so-called professional trim- 
mer which were beautiful trees of their own natural habit of growth, but 
their habit had to be improved by trimming them into a globular form. 
These trees are now an object of pity, and their once healthy and thrifty 
branches and leaders are now dead and decaying stumps left to protest in 
silent agony against the harsh and unnatural treatment received at the 
hands of one who was paid for doing them a friendly act. 
Trees seldom need severe trimming, and if they are not neglected of 
proper training when young a judicious thinning out and the pruning of 
some awkward leaders or branches will always be sufficient for a symmetri- 
cal growth. Therefore, the pruning knife early applied will in most all cases 
avoid the harsh wounds of the trimming saw ever after. 
If we have to deal with trees that were neglected in training while young, 
and the trimming saw becomes an absolute necessity, it should be applied 
by one who knows the natural habit of the tree to be benefited, and the 
wounds made should immediately be treated with a heavy coat of paint Oo; 
better still, with a coat of coal-tar and carbolic acid, so as to prevent fungi 
from ‘eating its way into the tree. 
My experience would show that pruning and thinning out is mre often 
needed on trees growing in light soil than it is on trees growing on heavy 
soil. In shallow soil they have a tendency to grow into thick, bushy tops, 
mop-head fashion, which needs constant thinning out. In heavy soil they 
need less pruning but are more apt to throw out some unruly leaders or 
branches, which must be watched as to their development so as not to allow 
them to throw the tree out of balance. 
A properly managed tree is at all times able to take care of itself in sup- 
porting its crown, but to do this it must be trained while young. Long 
lateral growth and wild shoots must be prevented by judicious pruning, 
thereby stimulating its backbone, the trunk, to become of sufficient strength 
and dimension to be able to carry the branches and leaves of its top. A 
top-heavy tree will become an early windfall. Shade trees on city streets 
require more attention in pruning than other trees planted in open spaces. 
The artificial surroundings will always check the natural condition for 
growth and development, and if not under the guiding hand of the cultivator 
it will often grow one sided and crippled. But under no condition should a 
tree be trimmed into any form or shape. A truly perfect, beautiful tree is 
not the one that shows man’s handiwork; therefore, the art of tree trimming 
is a knowledge of true simplicity in nature. It is a knowledge of how to 
