MEADOW VALE HORTICULTURAL CLUB. 67 



slowly movingf north. As fruits become acclimated their seedlings 

 will be hardier. This has been proven in our experiments here. 

 The meeting- was enlivened by guitar solos, songs, recitations, read- 

 ings on various horticultural topics, being the best meeting the 

 society has held. Next annual meeting last Saturday in October. 

 No people anywhere enjoy themselves more than do the horticul- 

 turists. 



THE PLANTING AND CULTIVATION OF THE 

 CURRANT FOR THE AMATEUR. 



A. D. LEACH, EXCELSIOR. 



In the first place, let me call your attention to a few things which 

 should not be done: 



Do not set your currant bushes in the fence corners or along the 

 garden fence to save cultivation. 



Do not let the grass and weeds get above your bushes or form a 

 sod among them. I tried this way of growing currants once and 

 did not succeed. 



If you discover the currant worm on your bushes, don't wait un- 

 til next week or next month, but spray them immediately. 



Do not set your bushes on poor land without a liberal application 

 of manure. The currant is a rank feeder, and in order to have good 

 currants the land must be rich and kept clean. 



Although the currant is one of the easiest of fruits to start, yet it 

 is necessary to know something of its habits in order to succeed. 



The best method of starting currants is from cuttings of the 

 past summer's growth, and I think the best time to cut and set 

 them is the last of September or first of October, though they may 

 be set any time before the ground freezes or in the early spring. 



The ground should be ploughed quite deep, say eight or ten in- 

 ches, and made mellow by dragging. Then stretch a line where 

 your first row is wanted. Cut your cuttings from six to eight in- 

 ches long, and if the soil is mellow they may be pushed into it un- 

 til only one bud is left above the ground and the soil pressed firm- 

 ly about them with the hand or foot— if the ground is hard, use the 

 dibble. I usually put them in the ground on a slant, as it is easier 

 to make the soil firm around them. The plants should be set about 

 six inches apart, and the rows far enough apart to admit of culti- 

 vation with a horse. If they are planted in September, they will be 

 thoroughly calloused before winter sets in, and if the soil is moist 

 the roots will start. At all events, they will be ready for a vigorous 

 growth in the early spring and will be nice bushes for transplant- 

 ing in the fall. Then trim to one shoot and transplant in October 

 on land made rich by a heavy application of barnyard manure. 

 Lay the land off with rows running north and south, if convenient, 

 and six feet apart, and put the bushes five feet apart in the row 

 Cultivate them thoroughly, and you will have fine bushes in the 

 fall. 



Trim the bushes into shape each autumn and commence taking 



