296 MINNESOTA STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



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 ing means dollars to the producer. To keep a raspberry plantation 

 in good condition, you must promptly suppress all weak growth 

 both by severe pruning of laterals and excision of all weak shoots. 



I have heard a great deal about the self-supporting raspberry bush, 

 but I never yet saw what to me would be a satisfactory crop of rasp- 

 berries growing on self-supporting canes. That is putting it pretty 

 strong I am willing to admit, but it is a fact nevertheless. One 

 cane in a hill might be so pruned as to keep an upright position, 

 but two or more have a tendency to branch heavier on the outside 

 making the stalk incline in that direction. They are swayed too 

 and fro by every wind that blows, and weighted to the earth by 

 showers and dew, and the consequence is, I often find, the man who 

 preaches the self-supporting raspberry trying to get even by giving 

 scant measure with the best berries on the top of the box. 



Surface manuring is best, and unleached ashes applied in the hill 

 in the early spring I find a valuable fertilizer. I avoid any usage 

 that will induce growth late in the fall so that the wood will not 

 ripen before winter. 



Make up your mind not to undertake to grow small fruit unless 

 you are willing to take the proper care of your plantation. Without 

 a willingness and a firm purpose to spare no pains to insure suc- 

 cess, is to accept defeat in the beginning. 



FALL PLANTING THE ORCHARD. 



J. p. ANDREWS, FARIBAUI^T. 



In milder and moister climates, they find it more to their advant- 

 age to plant in the fall or during winter, when frost does not prevent. 

 Some of the advantages of fall planting are that we have more time 

 in the fall in which to do the work, and will be more likely to have 

 it well done. The soil works much more easily and freer in the fall, 

 having much more of that clammy, doughy consistency than it has 

 in the spring, and when the frost comes out of the ground in the 

 spring the soil settles well around the roots, which at once com- 

 mence to pump up moisture to the tree, starting growth almost as 

 early as though it had never been transplanted. This gives the 

 tree a longer growing season, consequently a better growth than 

 spring planted trees make, especially if planted a little late, and, 

 having a good thrifty growth the first year, they go into the follow- 

 ing winter with so much more vigor than a tree having made a 

 feeble growth that the difference after the first winter is often the 

 difference between a live tree and a dead one. 



The one great mistake made when trees have been planted in the 

 fall in this dry, cold climate, is in leaving the tops erect and unpro- 

 tected. The slight evaporation through the bark and buds is a 

 serious drainage, the fall planted trees not having formed new 

 fibrous roots to take up moisture to supply the tops. If it has been 

 a dry, cold winter the result of such planting will be a dead orchard 

 in the spring — having simply dried out, a very natural result and 

 the thing to be expected. 



Our clothes freeze dry on the line in winter — the same drying 

 process is going on in the tree tops — and the newly planted trees. 



