4l6 MINNESOTA STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



steep hillsides, 12 inches to 18 inches to top of root; on lowland 

 ground, six inches to twelve inches deep and ground raised around 

 tree 4 inches to 6 inches when finished. 



i. Four or five inches deeper than they stood in the nursery. If 

 the soil is very heavy and slow in drying out in spring, would set 

 but three inches deeper. 



j. For five to seven-foot tree, would plant about six inches 

 deeper than they stood in nursery. 



k. On a wet soil, plant shallow ; if very wet, set tree on a little 

 mound ; on our dry soils in South Dakota, we usually set tree four to 

 six inches deeper than it grew in nursery. 



1. Plant four inches deeper than trees stood in nursery ; then 

 work soil towards the tree in cultivating. 



m. At least twelve inches deeper than they grew in nursery if 

 set on dry ground. We have the best luck where holes are dug two 

 feet deep and set very firm around the roots, looser on top. The tree 

 does not shake around with the wind when set deep. 



n. In most places the soil is dry, and trees should be planted 

 twelve inches deeper than they stood in the nursery row, and the 

 holes should be dug three feet deep with a depression of twelve 

 inches at the tree. 



o. I set trees from seven to fourteen inches deeper than grown 

 in nursery. In heavy, cold, retentive soils three inches is enough. 



p. One inch deeper than it grew in the nursery. 



q. Four to six inches deeper than grown in the nursery. 



In order to get the exact thought in some of the foregoing re- 

 plies, it will be necessary to read them also by letter. For instance, 

 read all of letter "a" consecutively, commencing with the reply to 

 question "1" ; then read all of "b," etc. 



"Of the sixteen preparing these replies, seven were nursery- 

 men as well as orchardists, but, in examining the replies, with the 

 single exception of the size of the trees to be planted, I am unable 

 to differentiate between those who are nurserymen and those who 

 are not. 



"The first question the proposed orchard planter asks is as to 

 'where' the orchard shall be located. The general reply to this sub- 

 ject in the northwest has been heretofore: 'north slope upon elevated 

 ground,' and this voices somewhat my own experience. But I was a 

 little surprised as well as interested to know that of the sixteen 

 replies to the query as to the best slope for an apple orchard, only 

 four recommended a north slope, while eleven noted a preference 

 for a northeast or north and east slope, and only one a north and 

 northwesterly one. In an experience covering many years with a 

 vineyard which has been especially successful in growing a very 

 fine quality of grapes, I am led. to believe that the northeast slope is 

 the best even for that purpose, as the vineyard referred to stood ex- 

 actly upon that kind of an incline. It seems to be very definitely 

 settled, then, for Minnesota, at least, in the judgment of many of 

 those best qualified to speak, that a northeast slope is to be preferred 

 for an orchard. 



