BUDDING AS A MEANS OF IMPROVING FRUITS. 425 



trying" to cut it out you will be almost sure to injure the bud. Better 

 leave it in. 



Mr. Elliot : I simply want to say a word to the younger mem- 

 bers of the society. I have a young friend in the other room who 

 has taken some premiums at the fair. I have tried to get him to take 

 up budding and put it in practice on his place. Well, he says he 

 doesn't know how. I got him a knife, made him a present of it, and 

 I told him not to go home and say he couldn't do it. I said, "Take 

 your knife and make an effort at it and see how many you can make 

 grow." That is what I want to say to these youager members, try 

 it and you will succeed eventually if you don't at first. 



Mr. Taylor: The illustration shown has been on a small tree, 

 out my budding is done on larger trees. When I have a tree that 

 is undesirable or that does not give us fruit, instead of grafting I 

 simply bud in the bend or in the joints of the limbs and I can change 

 the nature of the tree in a few years so it will bear a different fruit. 

 Instead of tying I simply tuck the end under, which saves the work 

 of tying. 



Mr. Lord : I invariably failed in trying to bud until Prof. Green 

 came and gave me some information. I found I made a mistake in 

 not tying sufficiently tight. 



Prof. Hansen : I want to emphasize what Mr. Lord has said. 

 There is not one man in ten who ties the bud tight enough, and if 

 you do not watch a man all the time you can hardly get one to tie 

 it tight enough. 



Prof. Green : Budding is done in the school of agriculture in 

 the winter. Instead of budding with a ripe bud we take the plants 

 and put them in the cellar, and after the plants start into growth in 

 the cellar a growth of three or four inches in length, we take these 

 cions and use them for grafting and insert the buds under the bark. 

 That is just what Mr. Taylor does. It is a very good way and is 

 quite commonly practiced. You can bud the first of May, just at 

 any time after the bud is started, and you will find it will make just 

 as good a growth. Mr. Wilfert talked of sticking the tion under the 

 bark, and when you stick that under the bark it is the same thing. 

 It will work all right and work almost any time during the growth 

 of the tree. There is a little difference in the detail. 



Mr. C. H. True (Iowa) : Will the cion that grows from the bud 

 I)e sufficiently hardy in the fall? 



Prof. Green : Yes, for all practical purposes it is all right. 



Mr. Leach : Would you not wait until the bark loosens ? 



Prof. Green : Of course, you have to wait until the bark is loose ; 

 that is one of the first conditions. 



Mr. True: In spring budding would you take the buds from 

 the tree early and keep them dormant or take them ripe? 



Prof. Green : In the case of plums I would rather take them 

 from the tree, but with apples I would keep them in the cellar. 



Mr. Mackintosh : A great many questions have been asked about 

 raffia. It takes the place of basswood in some localities, and it is 

 sold for twelve to twenty cents per pound. It is very strong and 

 convenient to use ; it is used a good deal. 



