222 



this section, directly adjoiniug the high iiioimtaiu range of the Roan 

 and Iron Mountains, dividing Tennessee from North Carolina. At Eliza- 

 bethtown I secured the services of Mr. George Emmert as guide, who, 

 in addition to an intimate knowledge of the whole country adjoining, is 

 possessed of the tact and ingenuity peculiar to mountaineers in all 

 countries. Never at a loss for a trail, always ready to meet emergencies, 

 he was just the companion a stranger to the countrj^ would most desire 

 on such a trip. 



In making the principal ascent of Eoau Mountain, we followed up 

 one of the numerous branches into which Doe Eiver divides, passing 

 through a dense growth of hard- wood forests, consisting mainly of sugar 

 maple, tulip tree, beech, oak, birch, chestnut, and linden, interspersed 

 with occasional growths of wild cherry, magnolia, and horse-chestnut. 

 The undergrowth presented a dense mass of shrubbery, including the 

 kalmia laurel, rhododendron, azalea, oil nut (pysularia,) and other forms 

 common to more northern forests. The rich loamy and clay soil was 

 everywhere saturated with moisture, resulting from recent rains. Only 

 rarely, and at long intervals, was there any exposure of granitic rocks, 

 which, as well as the decayed fallen trunks of trees, were densely covered 

 with mosses and folioceous lichens. The clear streams dashed over rocky 

 beds, with crystal pools along their course, from which the guide took 

 out, in an hour's time, a fine string of mountain trout. 



In making the steeper ascents directly at the base of the mountain 

 ridge, there was a gradual dwarfing of the forest growth, in which the 

 ordinary species, so abundant below give place to a nearly exclusive 

 preponderance of birch, which was continuous in its dwarfed aspects 

 to the summit gap. Not till reaching this point, fully five thousand feet 

 above the sea level, were we regaled with more than a passing glimpse 

 of the range which we were so laboriously ascending. Here, however, 

 the view opens on the smooth grassy slopes known by the country peo- 

 Xjie under the significant name of "Mountain Balds." These grassy or 

 bushy sloi)es are interspersed here and there by dark groves of balsam 

 and spruce, which serve to give a pleasant variety to the landscaj)e. 

 From these smooth rounded knolls, a magnificent view is atibrded of the 

 surrounding country. In order to give time to a more thorough exam- 

 ination of the vegetation of the high summit range, we made camp for 

 a night on the divide, taking shelter in a dense grove of balsam firs. 

 Fortunately for us, the weather waa unusually serene and ]3leasant. 

 The next day we strolled leisurely over the different swells composing 

 the main ridge, mounting to the highest rocky x^oint, which, according 

 to the accurate measurements of Professor Juj^ot, reached an elevation 

 of six thousand two hundred and thirty-eight feet above the sea, falling 

 but little below the highest summits in the 'Alleghany range. 



This "beautiful Eoan Mountain," so characterized b}^ early travelers, 

 has been a favorite resort of botanists since the time of Michaux's early 

 explorations, in the last centurj". It was visited by the distinguished 

 American botanist, Professor Gray, of Cambridge, in 1841, who noted, 

 with his accustomed thoroughness, its botanical features. Being six 

 weeks earlier in the season, I was able to add a few of the more forward 

 !q)ring plants to Dr. Gray's list, including, among others, the charming 

 fringed phacelia, {Phaeclia Jimbriata, Michx.) Now, as in the time of 

 these early travelers, these bald, grassy exposures are in extensive use 

 for summer pasturage; and at tlie season of our visit, June 8 and 9, they 

 were just being occupied for that i)urpose by the adjoining country peo- 

 ple with their herds of cattle and small droves of breeding horses. Here 

 the continuously cool atmosphere, abundance of nutritious grasses, and 



