Chap. XV.] CHINESE GRAVES. 337 



but was no doubt in error. The island, which belongs to the 

 Dutch, lies almost exactly on the equator. Separated from it 

 by a narrow strait is the somewhat similar cone of Tidore. 

 The lower slopes are planted with nutmegs, cloves, pepper, 

 cocoa trees, and a profusion of fruits. 



The mountain is unquiet, and there were said to occur on 

 an average three or four earthquakes every week ; I had great 

 hopes that I should have an opportunity of feeling one, but 

 was disappointed. The Dutch keep up a Government staff at 

 the; island, very much to the benefit and happiness of the 

 people, but I believe at a considerable financial loss. 



The Governor or Resident of the island at the time of the 

 visit of the " Challenger " was an accomplished naturalist, S. C . 

 J. W. van Musschenbroek ; he received the Expedition with 

 the greatest kindness and hospitality, and even got up a ball 

 on the shortest notice. The musicians were Malays, who were 

 indefatigable, but knew only one tune. 



The Resident presented a fine collection of Snakes and 

 Corals to the Expedition, and gave the greatest assistance and 

 information on all natural-history matters. There are a large 

 number of Chinese in the population of the island, and the 

 Captain China, or head of the Chinese under the Dutch, 

 according to their well-known method of Government in East 

 Indian Colonies, was one of the notables present at the ball. 



The Chinese have been for hundreds of years in the island, 

 and I was astonished to learn that some of them have, in the 

 course of generations, entirely lost the knowledge of their own 

 language, and now speak only Malay. I was told that it was 

 even possible that the Captain China himself might be in this 

 condition. I had thought this quite impossible in so strongly 

 conservative a people, and indeed had not realized the fact 

 that numerous generations of Chinese are born, die, and are 

 buried in these islands under Dutch rule. 



At Amboina, the large and costly tombs of the Chinese form 

 a feature in the landscape on the hill-sides,* and there is a 

 large Chinese graveyard at Ternate, with many tombs of great 

 age. I had fancied that all dead Chinese were carried to 

 China to be buried, at all events if rich. The English seem 

 to be the only civilized migratory people who never lose their 

 language. 



Instances of such loss by all other European races are to 

 be found in the United States. 



Malay collectors are sent every year to New Guinea from 

 Ternate, to collect Birds of Paradise and other birds, and a 



* Similarly at Timor, the costly Chinese tombs at which island are 

 figured in Peron and Leseur's "Voyage," published 1807. 



