CHAPTER XIX. 



JAPAN. THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. 



Tedious Voyage to Japan. Jinriksha Coolies. Worship of the White 

 Horse. Japanese Sight-Seers. Consulting the Oracle. Japanese 

 Pilgrims. Book Shops and Religious Shops. River Embankments. 

 Rice Fields. Houses of Wood and Paper. English Bed-room 

 Exhibited at the Exhibition. Money Boxes. Pilgrims and Priests. 

 Interest taken by the People in Tojins. Cold Water Cure. Paint- 

 ing of the Face in China and Japan. Japanese Tattooing. Japanese 

 Modes of Expression. Japanese Pictures and Theatres. Barren 

 Appearance of the Sandwich Islands. Honolulu. Supremacy of 

 American over Native Productions. Principal Trees of Oahu Island. 

 King Kalakaua. Hawaian Burials. Visit to the Crater of Kilauea. 

 Ponds of Fluid Lava, Mode of Formation of Peles Hair. Lava 

 Fountains and Cascades. Recent Eruptions. Hawaian Hook Orna- 

 ment. Its Probable Religious Signification. Hawaian Stone Club. 

 Affinities between New Zealand and Hawaian Art. Inter-breeding 

 on Isolated Islands. 



Japan, April 11th to June 16th, 1875. — The Admiralty 

 Islands were left behind on March loth, and a most tedious 

 voyage, of a month's duration, to Japan ensued. The vastness 

 of the expanse of water in the Pacific Ocean in proportion to 

 the area of the dry land, was pressed most strongly upon our 

 attention. Though the course north lay across a tract, which 

 on the map appears so crowded with islands that it seems 

 impossible at first sight that a straight route through them can 

 be marked out without encountering one of them, the ship 

 nevertheless arrived at Japan without any land having been 

 sighted during the whole voyage from the Admiralty Islands. 



A fact often brought home to me before, during the " Chal- 

 lenger's " cruise, was tediously forced on our notice on this 

 voyage to Japan, namely, that the inmates of a sailing ship on 

 a long voyage, suffer far more from too little than from too 

 much wind. We were constantly becalmed, and our steam 

 power being only auxiliary, and coal being short, we had to lie 

 still and wait, or creep along occasionally only at the rate of a 

 mile an hour. 



When the ship was about 400 miles distant from the 



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