LOOM AND SPINDLE—HOOPER. 655 
cloth of this pattern the intersections of the weft are invisible; there- 
fore its whole surface has the rich texture and glossy appearance 
known as satin. In the same proportion as the front of the satin 
web is nearly all warp, the back, of course, displays the weft. In 
pattern weaving these effects are called, respectively, warp satins and 
weft satins. 
Satins may be made on different numbers of heddles, from 5 up to 
24, Figure 41 
shows several of 
them drafted on a oo 
designers’ ruled oa cae 
paper. a none Seno 
AE xt ste Hg oon Gneee 
aera P om Seenee oS 
in the evolution 
of the loom was 
to adapt it for 
distinct pattern 
weaving. This 
was effected by 
adding a second 
set of heddles to 
the harness, mak- 
ing it what is 6) 
‘EE EBSESRe © 
called a com- an SERSEe@en 
pound harness. 
This compound 
mounting is 
shown in the 
Chinese drawing. 
The front set of 
10 heddles is for 
making the ® 
groundwork of 
the fabric, and 
the back set of five is for raising the figure, as the design is usually 
called in weaving. 
Here is a very simple figure (fig. 42), which will well illustrate the 
method of double harness pattern weaving. It is of a kind, too, of 
which the Chinese are very fond, having spots of ornamental shape 
powdered over a plain ground. Moreover, it could be woven on a 
loom fitted up exactly as in the Chinese picture. 
The ground of this design is a plain tabby silk. I have already 
shown how this can be woven in a harness of 10 heddles by means 
of 2 treadles. Five other treadles would, however, have to be added 
in order to work the figure harness, one for each heddle. 
Fic. 41.—-Satin ties. 
