LOOM AND SPINDLE—HOOPER. 661 
tation is in the size of the design. It would require a simple of 400 
cords to tie up a design one inch wide for a silk web 400 threads to an 
inch. 
This difficulty was surmounted by adopting the compound harness 
arrangement I have already described. It is shown in the Chinese 
drawing of the pattern-weaving loom (fig. 44, pl. 10). 
If threads entered singly in the front harness are lifted in tens by 
each leash of the figure harness, the design will be woven 10 inches 
wide instead of 1 inch; the simple and tie-up being no more exten- 
sive or complicated. 
More elaborate interlacements of warp and weft were arranged for 
by dividing the comber board into two or even three parts, each gov- 
erned by a separate set of simple cords, as well as by adding more 
warps and rollers to the loom, and additional harnesses of heddles 
for binders and stripes of satin, tabby, or tobine effects. In fact, 
there seems to be no limit to the different combinations the skillful 
designer may invent and provide for in this most perfect and adapt- 
able of all craftsman’s tools, the compound draw loom. 
In my third lecture I shall describe the Jacquard machine and 
some other important weaving inventions of the eighteenth century, 
the evolution of the power-driven loom, describe a new circular loom, 
and indicate some possible developments of the weaving machines of 
the future. 
Ill. THE JACQUARD MACHINE; POWER-DRIVEN LOOM. 
INTRODUCTION. 
In the two previous lectures my chief aim has been to point out the 
traditional continuity of the art of weaving and to show that all real 
- advances in it have been made by bringing new ideas to bear on old 
principles. This method of advance is common not only to the tex- 
tile but to all the arts of life. Man, at his best, is not a creator, but 
an improver, and all attempts to break with tradition and to produce 
something quite original always must end in more or less grotesque 
failure. 
I have tried to bring this truth out as regards the hand loom and 
spindle, and in the present lecture I shall chiefly direct your attention 
to the same fact, as exemplified in the development of the mechanism 
of the power loom during the last century. 
THE MODERN LOOM FOR PLAIN AND ORNAMENTAL WEAVING AND ITS 
FUTURE DEVELOPMENT. 
In the early part of the eighteenth century, weaving, as a handi- 
eraft, reached in Europe its point of highest perfection. France, 
England, and Italy were the chief countries in which it was 
practiced. 
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