666 ANNUAL REPORT SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION, 1914. 
into England and secretly set up. In spite of much opposition they 
soon came into general use, first and particularly for hand looms and 
silk weaving, but afterwards for power looms, all kinds of fancy and 
ornamental webs being since their adoption woven by their means. 
May I here repeat and emphasize that the invention of the Jacquard 
machine did not alter m the least the draw-loom method of pattern 
weaving? It only took the place of the drawboy and the pulley 
box, and substituted the endless band of perforated cards for the 
weaver’s tie-up. 
The designs, too, drafted on ruled paper, would be worked out 
in precisely the same manner, whether for tying up on the cords of 
a simple or for punching in a 
set of Jacquard cards. Each 
| ees card, in fact, takes the place 
= of one row of loops of the 
tie-up. 
The term Jacquard weaving, 
then, which one so often hears 
used,is a misnomer. Itshould 
be draw-loom weaving with a 
Jacquard machine, the ma- 
chine being only an ingenious 
substitute for a less compact 
: and manageable adjunct of 
Fig) 49-—Jacquard\machine. (iFront the draw loom, an adjunct, 
elevalion-) moreover, which, as we have 
seen, has continually varied from the time of the invention of this 
form of loom. After the draw loom itself I should class the Jacquard 
machine as the most important invention in textile mechanism. It 
therefore claims a careful description. 
Figure 49 is a drawing of the front elevation of a 400 Jacquard 
machine. ‘The number 400 refers to the number of needles and hooks 
with which the machine is fitted up. These needles and hooks an- 
swer to the number of the simple cords of the draw loom. A design 
is still technically spoken of as being drafted for so many cords. 
The position of the machine in the loom is at the top, where it is 
fixed on a solid frame just over the comber board, usually with its end 
to the front of the loom, so that the elevation shown in the figure is 
parallel with the side of the loom frame. 
The machine frame is oblong in shape. It is made of hardwood 
for hand looms and of iron for power looms. But in either case it 
needs to be of great strength. To the principal frame a smaller one 
is hinged at the top, so that it can be raised like a flap. 
