BEST METHODS OF PROPAGATING THE PLUM. iQ/ 



SO as to follow the marks left by the marker, and set so it will 

 leave marks about two inches deep. The seed is dropped in 

 about three inches apart in those marks, and if the ground is 

 mellow enough can be covered by a disc cultivator which will 

 ridge up the ground above each row. This ridge should be 

 dragged down in the spring just as soon as the ground is fit to 

 work, thereby loosening up the soil and giving the little sprouts 

 a chance to push their way through and also nipping off any 

 weeds that may be starting at that time. 



If the soil is good and they receive sufficient cultivation, the 

 majority of these seedlings will be large enough to bud by the 

 last of July or the first week in August, which is the proper time 

 for budding the plum. The bark can be removed freely at that 

 time, and at the same time the bud will not get drowned out by 

 too much sap in the wood. The buds should be placed as near 

 to the ground as possible and on the northeastern side of the 

 stocks to prevent freezing and thawing, and wrapped tightly 

 with raffia. This raffia must be removed as soon as the buds 

 have grown fast to the seedling, which usually takes about three 

 to four weeks, to prevent the girdling of the stock. When winter 

 approaches the ground should be heaped above the buds by 

 means of a small plow, or if the trees are small a disc cultivator 

 is just the tool. 



When spring arrives, the dirt must be leveled back before 

 the buds in the tree begin to swell, which is usually about the 

 loth of April. As soon as the buds begin to break open, the top 

 of the seedling should be cut off just above the bud inserted. 

 Should any of the buds fail to grow the seedling can be cut off 

 square about two inches above the ground, the stub split about 

 an inch and a half, and a scion, of the same variety as the buds 

 used in that particular row, cut wedged-shaped and inserted in 

 the crevice made in the seedling and waxed over nicely with 

 beeswax, tallow and resin melted together. By doing this a 

 person can get most of his seedlings either budded or grafted. 

 The buds usually make the best growth, sometimes attaining 

 a height of from four to seven feet the first season. 



As soon as the bud or graft gets nicely started, a lath should 

 be firmly driven down beside each tree, and as .the little sprout 

 attains some height it should be tied to the lath with a soft 

 cord. This will have to be repeated two or three times dur- 

 ing the season, so as to keep the wind from whipping off the 

 little trees before the wood becomes hardened. The following 

 spring the tops should be cut back to about three feet, which 



