12 The Mountaineer 
almost vertically and erosion had left few accessible faces. The 
rock was extremely rotten, great care was required, and we 
had a stiff, muscle-testing climb of several hours. At the top 
we paused to look around. Below the little lake shone like 
an emerald, while all about lay a panorama of magnificent, 
unnamed peaks, to the east the expanse of the Rockies and 
all about us the Selkirks. The mountains in the neighborhood 
are largely of limestone, with a reddish tinge, suggesting, ex- 
cept that the snow and ice effects are more striking and that 
the erosion is more rugged, the mountains of Colorado and 
Montana. 
The steep ridge which we had surmounted continued rising 
to the south, terminating in the magnificent crown of Ham- 
mond. We followed its knife-edge until an elevation of 11,000 
feet was reached, and we now stood on a narrow arete, with 
a chasm on either side into which the rotten rock was con- 
tinually avalanching. It was now entirely clear that we had 
been climbing from the wrong side, a comparatively easy route 
from the north fork of Toby Creek, attacking the summit from 
the west, becoming evident. But clouds on the horizon in- 
dicated approaching bad weather, apt to last for days—as 
afterward proved to be the case. Gleason had told us to climb 
the mountain without him, if in our judgment it appeared best. 
It seemed now or never. The worst part of the climb was 
over. But, alas! it was my first climb after a hard, oftfice- 
confined vear. We had already had an exhausting experience, 
I had not got my mountain wind or legs, and a rapid dash, 
requiring the balance and endurance of perfect condition, was 
necessary if we hoped to make the summit and return to our 
camp that night. So I reluetantly consented that Ellis, who 
was in perfect condition, should make the dash alone, I watch- 
ing and trying to render help if necessary. 
Taking a course a little west of north, Ellis continued until 
he found himself overlooking Boulder Creek and immediately 
under the crown of the summit. Here a bastion of hard 
limestone that had withstood the ravages of time blocked the 
way. The elevation at this point was found to be 12,000 feet. 
Following the bastion south and east about fifty feet, the first 
fissure suggested a possible opening, but was found to be closed 
by a large rock that had fallen into the crevice. Tee and water 
made an attempt here impracticable. <A little farther on, a 
