26 The Mountaineer 
Mr. Gerdine said it took a long time to persuade the rest 
to go on, but at last they started and reaching the summit, 
did the work they had come to do, and returned to camp. 
The next ascent was made by the late Prof. I. C. Russel 
in the same year as the United States Geological Survey 
party. This ascent was made from their camp and the same 
route followed. 
The first ascent from the east side was made by C. E. Rusk 
and A. L. Cool, on August 26, 1906. Their main camp was. 
at Buek Creek Pass and timberline camp was on the ridge 
north of the Cool Glacier. The ascent was made by follow- 
ing this ridge, then over the Chocolate Glacier to the saddle 
south of the peak, from which point the route of the former 
ascents was followed. The ascent was made in five and one- 
half hours and the descent in three hours. 
The fourth ascent was accomplished by three *Mountain- 
eers,” M. A. Krows, P. M. McGregor, and the writer, on Aug- 
ust 1, 1910. There was no trail from Buck Creek Pass to 
timberline on Glacier Peak. 
The object of this ascent was to cruise out the best route 
for the club to follow on the official climb. Leaving camp 
(elevation 5,796 ft.), at 5:45 a. m. on July 31, 1910, each 
with a thirty-five pound pack, we proceeded down Meadow 
Creek about a mile, then southwesterly to Rock Creek, three 
miles from camp, across this stream and over a point to the 
Suiattle River, one-half mile (elevation 3,800 ft.) We = fol- 
lowed up this stream a mile and crossed on a fallen tree. 
Here we left the river and took a westerly course up a ridge 
and gradually sloping bench to Chocolate River one and one- 
half miles. Crossing the river on a convenient log we climbed 
to the bench above and went west along the edge of the can- 
von one half mile then turning south to the point of a hill, 
we continued westerly up this side hill one and three-fourth 
miles. At this point we came out to the edge of the cliff where 
we could look down on the Chocolate Glacier 500 feet below us. 
The glacier made a bend here and our course was changed 
to southwest as we followed a goat trail along the cliff over- 
looking the glacier. After following this trail about a mile 
to the place we judged right, we turned and went south along 
a side hill three quarters of a mile, coming out into the park 
we had picked from Buck Creek Pass as a possible temporary 
