36 The Mountaineer 
for breakfast, and we joined a weird line of people who, cup in 
hand, circled around the kettles where breakfast was being 
served. 
At 4:50 the party fell into line in their assigned places 
and were off just as the gray light of dawn touched the peaks 
around us. The weather conditions seemed auspicious, the 
party in fine spirits and prospects favorable for the success- 
ful culmination of the outing. 
The first of the ascent followed a ridge above camp first 
on grassy slopes, then pumice, and from there to the snow. 
As we reached the latter we paused to look about us and 
found ourselves in a transformed universe: great white clouds 
lay beiow us, projecting peaks made islands against which 
the ethereal surf washed softly, and between them billows of 
delicately tinted clouds rolled ceaselessly. As we looked up at 
the great peak glistening against the perfect azure “Jocund 
day stood tiptoe on the mountain top.” 
The ascent followed on snow slopes for 2,500 feet, crossing 
the Cool Glacier to an arete between the Chocolate and Cool 
Glaciers, the steepest slope being 45°; however, the route was 
so carefully chosen that dangerous crevasses were avoided 
and the only great difficulty was a rock ridge just below the 
summit, where the rocks proved treacherous and great care had 
to be exercised not to dislodge them and endanger the people 
below. To avoid this, ice steps were cut beside the ridge and 
the life line brought into service and all ascended safely. 
The summit was reached at 11:10 a. m., with the party in 
perfect condition, having thoroughly enjoyed the climb, the 
ascent having taken six hours and thirty-six minutes, inelud- 
ing a stop for lunch, with a rise in altitude of 4,280 feet. 
Thus was accomplished the first club ascent of Glacier Peak, 
and for the first time women stood upon its summit. 
The rocks on the summit showed signs of voleanic action, 
but the old crater, some quarter of a mile in’ diameter, is 
filled with snow and the rim is broken and worn, leaving ir- 
regular pinnacles of rock standing. The cairn was found on 
the southwestern part of the rim near the highest point. The 
only records found were of C. E. Rusk and A. L. Cool, of Lu- 
cerne, Washington, who made the ascent in 1906; the Moun- 
taineers’ Outing Committee, August 1, 1910, and Dr. Hall and 
Dr. Dehn of the University of Washington, August 4, 1910. 
