The Mountaineer 35 
of the glacier for several miles, starting in a southerly direction 
and gradually swinging to the west as we cut the are of a circle 
around the peak. As we rounded a sharp, knife-lhke rock shoul- 
der of the mountain, that unknown south side came into view, 
and there seemed a reasonable chance that the mountain was 
ours. Instead of precipices where in places the snow and ice 
eould barely maintain a foothold, we found the hollow on this 
side filled with a steep, winding glacier tributary to the Toby 
Glacier, with névé and snow-field above and a rock ridge at 
the top, and all apparently negotiable with proper precaution. 
There were the usual problems of avoiding crevasses on the 
lower levels and looking out for rocks above; but all went well, 
and one o'clock in the afternoon of a splendid day found us 
the first persons on the summit of Mount Gleason (named after 
Mr. Herbert W. Gleason), one of the finest peaks of the south- 
ern Selkirks. We lunehed and enjoyed the curiously detached 
and tremendous sensation afforded by a view of a chaotic ice 
and rock world from a peak one side of which swept down 
thousands of feet in a sheer precipice below our feet. Our 
aneroiding placed the height at about 10,600 feet, and rough 
triangulation from Toby Glacier, where we subsequently ran 
a base line, gave a height of 10,800 feet. The summit rock 
seemed to be largely granitic, which probabiy accounts for the 
peak’s retaining its sharp, Matterhorn-lke shape. 
The running of a base line on Toby Glacier and a trip 
through the ice columns of the “Temple of Karnak,” which we 
threaded from end to end, on subsequent days, brought our 
Toby Creek work to a elose, and we then hied ourselves to 
Horse Thief Creek, another west to east tributary of the Co- 
lumbia river, lying to the north of Toby Creek. Mr. Ellis had 
to leave the party again, on account of business. 
Horse Thief Creek, in its 45-mile length, heads up in 
another interesting part of the erest range. Outfitting for the 
mountaineer and hunter is facilitated by Thomas Starbird’s 
delightful Mountain Valley Ranch, about thirteen miles up the 
ereek from Wilmer. This ereek, in its variety of scenic features 
canyons, hoodoos, steep mountain side walls, unsurpassed 
waterfalls and its culminating magnificent Alpine scenery at 
the head—far surpasses even the beautiful Toby Creek. Goats 
fairly run riot on the mountains about the valley, there 1s an 
