The Mountaineer 39 
judged from various points by varying lghts, the only point 
of serious difficulty lies not on the rocks but immediately below 
them. Here a steep ice slope, rotten ice, and deep crevasses 
below might require some 200 feet of step-cutting. Care must 
also be exercised in getting on to the rocks lest procedure too 
far to the west take the party under dangerous ice cliffs. 
Weather conditions and season are also important in order to 
avoid either too much snow on the rocks, or avalanches while 
crossing the head of Mowitz glacier. The route determined, 
there remains the problem of an eighteen-hour ascent with only 
fourteen daylight hours—for September seems the best month 
for this route. If the start is at 2 a. m., with wind-proof Alpine 
lanterns, this interesting first ascent by the northwest side 
might safely be accomplished in a day. 
