History of Ancient and' Modern Wines. 129 



they are high-coloured, and somewhat rough, but when kept a few- 

 years become lighter and milder, and approach in flavour to the 

 wines of Rota."-Pp. 178, 179. 



5. Of the TFi«es o/ Gasco/;?/ a!JcZGMie?ine. — Whatever may be the 

 excellence of the other French wines, those of the Bordelais are 

 perhaps the most perfect ; they keep well, are improved by sea 

 carriage, and are exported to all parts of the world. The vine- 

 yards of this district are divided into those of Medoc, Graves, 

 Palus, and Vignes- Blanches, which furnish the prime wines ; while 

 the territories of Entre-deux-Mers, Bouroeais, and Saint Emilion 

 afford growths of secondary value. The Medoc district commen- 

 ces about thirteen leagues to the north of Bourdeaux, and extends 

 along the left bank of the Gironde and Garonne as far as Blancfort, 

 which is two leagues and a half below Bourdeaux ; it compre- 

 hends the most celebrated growths of the country, such as Lafitet 

 and Latour, Leoville, Chateau-Margaux, and Rauzan. The wines, 

 both red and white, which grow on the gravelly lands to the south- 

 east and south-west of Bourdeaux, are generally termed graves. 

 The strong wines of the Palus and other districts are chiefly used 

 to mix with the poor ones of Madoc, and our author informs us 

 that there is a particular manufacture, called travail a I'Aiiglaise, 

 Avhich consists in adding to each hogshead of the genuine wine 

 three or four gallons of Alicant or Bsnicarlo, half a gallon of 

 Stum wine, and a small quantity of Hermitage. This mixture 

 undergoes a slight fermentation, and is then exported as Claret. 

 We believe also that small quantities of raspberry brandy are added 

 to some of the clarets intended for our market. 



Among the white wines the graves are celebrated for their dry- 

 ness and aroma ; the choicest are from the vineyards of St. Bris 

 and Carbonnieux ; the growths of Pontac and Dulmon also closely 

 resemble them. Sauterne, Barsac, and Preignac are sweetish 

 when new, but they keep well, and get dry without loss of flavour. 



Dr. Henderson next treats of the wines of Spain and Portugal. 

 The Spaniards, lie tells us, prefer the rich and sweet wines, and 

 rate the growths of Malaga and Alicant more highly than those of 

 Xeres. Spain undoubtedly produces some excellent wine, and 

 might afford much more were it not for the inherent sluggish and 

 careless habits of the proprietors. Sherry is amongour best wines ; 

 it is made indiscriminately of red and white grapes, which, when 

 fully ripe, are dried for two or three days upon mats, freed from 

 the stalks, and picked. " '1 hey are then introduced into vats, with 

 a layer of burnt gypsum on the surface, and are trodden by pea- 

 sants with wooden shoes. 1 he juice that flows from them is col- 

 lected in casks, and these as they are filled are lodged in the stores, 

 where the fermentation is allowed to take its course, continuing 

 generally from the month of October till the beginning or middle 

 of December. When it has ceased the wines are racked from the 



Vol. XVIII. K 



