History of Ancient andA Modern Wines. 131 



portion of those made in Germany, the grapes are separated from 

 the stalks, and fermented in casks, by which means the aroma is 

 fully preserved. The wine is freed from the lees by successive 

 racicinofs, and, when sufficiently clarified, is introduced into tuns, 

 where it is allowed to mellow, and continues to improve during a 

 long term of years. Those used in the Rhinegau commonly hold 

 eight ohms, or five and a half hogsheads ; but, in other parts of 

 Germany, they are of larger capacity. Formerly the great pro- 

 prietors vied with each other in the magnitude of the vessels in 

 which they collected and preserved the produce of their vines ; 

 and as the better growths are valued in proportion to their age, 

 the stock of wines in the cellars belonging to the princes, magi- 

 strates, and richer order of monks, was often enormous. Most 

 persons have heard of the Heidelberg tun, and other immense 

 casks in which they have been kept for whole centuries. Nor is 

 such a mode of preserving certain vintages so absurd as some 

 writers have imagined ; for the stronger wines are undoubtedly 

 improved by it to a greater degree, than they could have been by 

 an opposite system of management. But in practising this me- 

 thod, it is essential, in the first place, to keep the vessel always 

 full ; and, secondly, when any portion of the contents is drawn 

 off, to replace it with wine of the same growth, or as nearly re- 

 sembling it as possible. When such cannot be had, the vacant 

 space may be filled up by introducing washed pebbles into the 

 cask. The wine which Keysler drank at Strasburg, from a tua 

 which bore the date of 1472, had become thick and acid, because 

 these precautions were neglected. Had it been kept in bottle, 

 this degeneration probably would not have taken place. For the 

 more delicate growths, however, small vessels are certainly pre- 

 ferable."— Pp. 229-220. 



The best wines of the Rhine are very distinct and peculiar ; 

 they are not generally strong, but abound in a flavour and aroma 

 singularly their own, and always improved by age. At the head 

 of these wines is the Schoss-Johannis Berger, and to it the 

 choicest Steinberger is little inferior. The vineyards too of 

 Hochheim yield abundant and excellent produce; but in respect to 

 all these wines, season has great influence. The vintage is late, 

 and if the weather be wet and cold, the wines are poor and sour: 

 the hock of warm and dry seasons is always to be sought for. 



Hungary has numerous vineyards, but it is to that of Tokay 

 that wo must chiefly direct our attention. Its wines came into 

 vogue about tiic middle of the seventeenth century, when they 

 were first prepared from picked and half-dried grapes ; they are 

 cloying, rich, and aromatic, and generally turbid ; but our au- 

 thor's information respecting their varieties and manufacture seems 

 imperfect. After describing the cultivation of the grape, he says — 



K2 



