Proceedings in Egypt and Nubia. 31 



warm upon the mind, are objectionable to some, yet in our opi- 

 nion it is this very freshness and genuine glow of truth about 

 them, which give to loose memoranda of this description their 

 highest charm, and with this belief we choose rather to hazard 

 the imperfections they may contain, than alter even a phrase Of 

 the journal in which they are preserved. We shall confine our- 

 selves, however, to the extracts of such particulars only as bear 

 on the subject of this memoir, though a degree of abruptness and 

 want of connexion will be given to the narrative thereby, but it 

 would be difficult to avoid this without falling into a greater 

 evil. 



Ascending the Nile above Hermonthis, Friday, Nov. 26, 1813. 



The breeze strengthened every hour, and brought us to Esneh 

 about three o'clock, where we landed to wait on the Kiashef, or 

 Commandant. When the ceremonials of our visit were over, my 

 first inquiry was after a Swiss traveller, whom I had heard was 

 here, and it was a pleasure to me of the highest kind to find my 

 hopes confirmed. The Kiashef politely sent for him, and he en- 

 tered the room, dressed as an Arab Fellah, with a long beard 

 and blue chemise, having assumed the name of Sheikh Ibraliim, 

 and so perfectly acquired the Arabic language during several 

 years* travels in Egypt and Syria, as to pass among the most 

 suspicious for a native of the country. Our conversation was 

 divided between the most recent intelligence from Europe, as 

 demanded from me, and the local information relative to Egypt 

 kindly given in return by him. We both remained to sup with 

 the Turk, whose attentions were such as I had not yet witnessed 

 among them, and we continued together in close conversation 

 until nearly midnight. 



Esneh, or Latopolis, Saturday, Nov. 27. 



We had not yet risen, when Sheikh Ibrahim paid me a visit in 

 the boat, and we breakfasted together at sun-rise. It is a cir- 

 cumstance which I shall ever remember with peculiar pleasure, 

 that early as the visit was, we sat upon the mattress extended on 



