Proceedings hi Egifpt and Nubia. 45 



hardly ever varies. It is true that the voyage is performed 

 across a sea beset with reefs and shoals, presenting to ignorant 

 natives in their wretched boats, all the perils of a Pacific navi- 

 gation, but as they have almost always fine weather, and sail 

 only with a favourable wind, they run across in four or five days 

 from shore to shore, and make their returns from Jedda in com- 

 mon clothing, ordinary arms, Sfc. 



Jedda, Friday, December 2. 



As we were particularly desirous of hearing from our Mus- 

 sulman guest some account of his pilgrimage to Mecca, in con- 

 tinuation of the narrative of his travels, it formed the subject of 

 his communications to us between the hours of breakfast and 

 dinner, and we found his conversation at all times so gratifying 

 that every other occupation was waved to listen to it. Fortu- 

 nately the duties of the ship did not at all require the personal 

 attention of Captain Boog for a moment, and for myself I could 

 sacrifice most willingly whatever disposition for other employ- 

 ments might have existed for the superior pleasure of being thus 

 at once so agreeably entertained and informed ; so that we sat 

 at the table for hours in continuation without once moving from 

 our seats, until the preparations for a second meal warned us 

 that we had taken no exercise since our first, when we walked 

 under the awning of the quarter-deck, or enjoyed the purer 

 freshness of the breeze upon the poop above. 



The town of Jedda being encompassed by a wall toward the 

 land, has on that side a gate which is called the gate of Mecca, 

 through which none but the faithful are allowed either to enter 

 or to go out on pain of death. From this gate the pilgrimage 

 is considered to commence, and it is performed in a variety of 

 ways, according to the devotion or the means of the pilgrim. 

 The more devout strip themselves entirely of their ordinary dress, 

 and substitute the haram, cither of muslin or cotton, which en- 

 circles their waist, is brought up over one shoulder, and the 

 ends there united in a knot ; the head and feet are then bared, 

 and the journey to the holy city is performed by them on foot. 

 Some of the most devout even undertake the whole of the pil- 



