Trip to the Capuchin Missions. 261 



whose sandy bed and deep channel shewed the sterility of the 

 elevated surface, and the immense body of water it sometimes 

 pours into the Orinoco. On the right bank stood a small vil- 

 lage of the same name, once containing probably three or four 

 hundred inhabitants: but the mouldering habitations, and gar- 

 dens overrun with bush, attest its present complete abandon- 

 ment. We had hitherto passed but one hut on our way ; and 

 the desolate aspect of the place gave us no favourable impres- 

 sion of this portion of Guayana. The sun was already going 

 down, and we had three long leagues of nearly four miles each 

 between us and Panapana. Jogged on, and just before dark, 

 passed the rapid torrent Candelaria, then tolerably dry : had 

 much rain fallen, we might have been detained some hours ; but 

 its vicinity to the Orinoco, prevents its continuing full long to- 

 gether. Groped our way onwards in the dark, scrambling over 

 the stones in an unknown and scarcely perceptible track ; but 

 our beasts were fortunately more used to this work than their 

 riders. At length half a mile of wood brought us to the banks 

 of the Guaynare, which we knew to be near the end of our ride. 

 But our difficulties were not yet over. The descent was steep ; 

 the water pretty deep, and my horse expecting to swim for it 

 refused to advance, until I should a Llanero, dismount, take 

 the saddle on my head and shew him the way. With much 

 flogging and spurring, however, at last in we all plunged to- 

 gether, and reached the other side with no other injury than 

 the wet : but it was between eight and nine ere we arrived at 

 Panapana. The Comniandant, Gaspar Uraca, unused to such 

 late visitors, and just going to supper, turned out in alarm with 

 spear and shield to receive us ; but being answered in the usual 

 tone of salutation, desired us to alight, and ushered us into his 

 abode. We took up our quarters, i. e., slung our hammocks 

 over his counter, for his was the only shop we met with in the 

 district. The village is conveniently situated, about half a league 

 from the Orinoco ; it once contained several Indian families ; 

 and, in the time of the Spaniards, actually furnished 100 men to 

 the militia ; but the war and the fever had made such havoc, that 

 48 Indians were the whole that remained ; and these, with a iew 

 cavalry and Creoles, formed the whole population. The barren- 



