266 Trip from Angostura to the 



afraid of contagion, slung their hammocks in the gallery. Ob- 

 served a singular effect of the fever : most of the children who 

 had suft'ered, remained with swelled bellies. 



1st Nov. Prepared to move at day-break. It had rained in 

 the night. Our road lay mostly through the woods, and their 

 coolness formed a delightful contrast to the parching heat of the 

 savannas, which had so much disfigured my complexion. Tra- 

 versed some agreeable savannas ; some of them coated with good 

 pasture. At about two leagues' distance entered the ravine that 

 conducts by a gradual ascent up the mountain. On either side, 

 thick and impenetrable forest; but, where an opening ap- 

 peared, the view highly romantic. Ascended continually for 

 about five leagues : the road sometimes good, sometimes so 

 steep and worn by the torrent, that it was scarcely possible to 

 keep our seats. It was evident by the surrounding heights, and 

 the stream, that for miles accompanied us, tliat we were still in 

 the ravine. Grass for our beasts was looked for in vain, so we 

 took advantage of a pretty resting-place to breakfast. Though 

 11 o'clock, the great elevation and thick foliage made the air 

 quite chilly, and gave an excellent relish to our gunpowder bis- 

 cuit. The road was fenced on both sides to prevent the cattle, 

 on their passage to Angostura, from straying into these forests, 

 where they must inevitably perish. To meet with a herd in this 

 narrow pass, would be somewhat perplexing. After an hour's 

 rest, continued our route, and at length arrived at the summit 

 where we found a small spot cleared, and an empty hut for tlie 

 accommodation of travellers. Water we still found, but no liv- 

 ing soul : indeed, in these dreary wilds, the human face rarely 

 greets the eye until the journey's end. Descending, still through 

 the richest woods, abounding with cinchona, and other medicinal 

 shrubs, at last opened a savanna, in which stands the village of 

 San Antonio. Had heard much talk of robberies, and had kept 

 close, but no danger had presented itself. No sooner had we 

 entered the savanna, than our guide, in visible alarm, pointed 

 to a shed, where lay the corpse of a negro. Soon discovered 

 that the poor fellow had not been murdered, as our guide sup- 

 posed, but had fallen a victim to the fever: yet so much had 



