268 Trip from Angostura to the 



pally supplied from some large ponds, in one of which I bathed. 

 A beautiful spring, about a mile distant, and carefully covered 

 in, supplied the residence. Pursuing our course along the sa- 

 vanna for about five leagues from San Antonio, came to the 

 foot of the range of thick-wooded mountains, which separated 

 us from Upata. It appeared to run in a line N.N.E. by S.S.W., 

 and is doubtless connected with the lofty ridge, which bounds the 

 immense tract of level we afterwards came upon. On first en- 

 tering the thicket, the trees were short, mostly brushwood, but 

 visibly improved as we advanced. Soon arrived at the highest 

 point of the road, whence we gradually descended for above two 

 leagues, through a most beautiful country: soil much richer: 

 trees more lofty, and abundance of water, as we conjectured 

 from the frequent beds of torrents, some of them quite empty. 

 On our approach within two leagues of Upata, saw many little 

 plantations of sugar and coffee, but more of provision-grounds, 

 maize, rice, plantains, cassava, §-c., on either side. The canes 

 appeared to thiive, a proof of good soil. In fact, with 

 the heavy rains that fall in this tract, and the vast depo- 

 sit of vegetable matter in these interminable forests, the 

 soil must be equal to any production. The weedy state 

 of the grounds, and filth of the comfortless huts, shew- 

 ed the indolence of the cultivators. At two P.M. arrived 

 at Upata, the capital of these missions. Found the Commissioner 

 Uscategui very ill of the fever : he gave us a melancholy ac- 

 count of the whole neighbourhood — ^but received us most kindly, 

 and assigned us quarters in a vacant habitation, the owner of 

 which was upon his conuco (plantation). Revived his hopes 

 with the assurance that his malady was curable, and that we 

 would not leave him until his recovery. He invited us to 

 dinner, but we had already refused an invitation from the Com- 

 mandant Lanz. Our quarters were, a house built of clay, con- 

 sisting of a sala with a door in front, and another in rear ; a 

 bed-chamber with one window, and a kind of store-room with 

 none. The greatest economy seems to be observed in the con- 

 struction of these habitations — carpenter's work rare, and not a 

 nail throughout. Obliged to borrow a table and two chairs ; 



