Capuchin Missions of the Caroni. 283 



on the summit of a hill before us. Colonel Matamoro, the 

 commandant, received us with more than usual courtesy ; and, 

 while breakfast was preparing, shewed us his garden. Besides 

 various kinds of vegetables, it contained about an acre of vines 

 trailed over a sort of arbour, whence the grapes hung in thick 

 clusters, both white and red. They were excellent, and we did 

 them full justice ; but the large red ant had made cruel havoc, 

 and threatened their total destruction. In vain did we light 

 fires upon their nests : myriads still succeeded the myriads de- 

 stroyed. The arid soil was ill adapted for gardening, but the 

 air favourable for every kind of vegetable produce. Santa 

 Maria stands upon a table land at the foot of a range of hills, 

 separating it from Upata. It commands a most extensive and 

 beautiful view. The plains on the south, lower than the level 

 of Upata, are bounded by a more distant range of hills ; those 

 on the east stretch farther than the eye can follow. This mis- 

 sion was the second established by the monks in 1730. It 

 consists of 62 buildings, of three huts each; and, in 1803, 

 contained 570 inhabitants. At present, the fever is raging with 

 full violence — counted 125 sick, which exceeds the total con- 

 valescents that we saw ; but most of the people have retired to 

 their conucos. About one, the fiscal and a gang of nearly 

 twenty women returned from gathering corn, each loaded with 

 ears as full and fine as any I ever saw. The officer was, as 

 usual, mounted, but the girls on foot ; they had brought their 

 loads two leagues. The crop had been abundant; the whole 

 destined for the state. Cotton and provisions are the sole pro- 

 duce of this place. Of the former, a good crop was expected : 

 the press-wall all ready. Matamoro shewed us the seed and wood 

 of the diridiri or uatapan, assuring us that a hide took but five 

 days to tan ; the wood hard, and capable of high polish. 

 There is here a tannery, and a shoemaker, who was ill of the 

 fever : the price of a pair of shoes ten rials. Rice and cassava 

 are cultivated with success ; indeed the mission is adapted to 

 every kind of produce. There is also fine pasture for cattle ; 

 but most of them run wild at present; also, a large po^rcro for 

 breeding horses. Game, and many species of wild animals. 



