56 



peasantry of the extreme north, and appear to be industrious fishers 

 and cultivators of the soil. We saw among them no signs of abject 

 poverty, and their habitations, though frequently built partly of turf, 

 and far from large, did not appear to be so utterly destitute of comfort 

 as those of the inhabitants of the remoter districts of the Highlands, 

 and more especially of the Islands of Scotland. The Lapps, iuferior 

 in stature and physical qualities to the other inhabitants of the coun- 

 try, ai-e entirely nomadic in their habits ; their whole property con- 

 sisting of reindeer, with which they migrate in summer to the more 

 northern pastures, and their dwellings, something between the hut 

 and the tent, are extremely rude. 



At Tromsoe we had but little success in dredging, the channel 

 in front of it being narrow, with a rapid current, but by examining the 

 shore at low water, we obtained abundant specimens of Astarte artica, 

 Crenella discors, Buccinum cyaneiim, Natica clausa, &e. The weather 

 we found rather warm, though the snow lay in large patches down to the 

 sea margin, and in the course of a walk along the side of the valley 

 opposite to the town, we had to cross a ravine upon snow which served 

 as a bridge over a roaring mountain torrent. 



The distance from Tromsoe to Hammerfest is about 120 miles, and 

 occupied between two and three days, including the time spent in 

 dredging, and at anchor on account of fog. Glaciers, of which we had 

 hitherto seen but few and at a distance, now formed a striking feature 

 in the scenery, which likewise derived a peculiar character from 

 the natural terraces or raised beaches extensively developed on all 

 sides, which have been noticed by travellers, and are minutely des- 

 cribed by Mr. Robert Chambers, in his " Tracings of the North of 

 Europe." We were especially struck -mth the scene in sailing through 

 a passage called Kaag Sund, in front of the lofty Kaagen Island, with 

 its lap full of snow, supplying material for a glacier, as well as for a 

 beautiful cascade of considerable breadth ; w hile its foot was occupied 

 by a camp of Lapps, with their numerous herd of reindeer. They 

 appeared to be in the act of migrating, as some were encamped on both 

 sides of the sound, and one of the reins was being swam aci'oss 

 behind a boat. 



Early in the afternoon of 4th July, we anchored at Hammerfest, said 

 to be the most northern town in the world. The coast scenery of the 

 immediate neighbourhood is fine, though the mountains are of lower 

 elevation, probably not more than 1000 to 2000 feet; the country 

 behind is likewise interesting, containing pretty lakes and beautiful 

 cascades, notwithstanding which the situation and appearance of the 

 town itself is the least prepossessing that I have seen in Norway, the 



