\)v\\ ^^aler](lar. 



J. S. HARRIS. 



Be ready at the first opening of spriiii^;- to do every kiud of work 

 promptly and in season. 



All trees and shrubs should l)e transplanted, if possible, before the 

 trees put out or the buds are ver}- nnuli started, but not in wet soil 

 or that which is partly frozen. Currants, gooseberries, raspberries 

 and some of the ornamental shrubs start very early and should be 

 planted as early as the season will permit. 



It is in order to refer to the calendar for March, and if any of the 

 sugf^estions have been overlooked or not put in practice to at once 

 attend to them. Two or three more dr3ing-, windy da3'8 mig^ht effect- 

 ually kill a rabbit gnawed tree, that would recover if the wounds 

 were waxed over or banked over with soil immediately. Orchard 

 insects are largely bred in diseased limbs and dead trees and fruit 

 of the lowest grade and poorest quality. Diseased limbs and dead 

 or dying trees should at once be removed from the orchard, and anj^ 

 trees that bear fruit that is not worth gathering for use should, if 

 hardy and health}-, be worked over, or top-grafted, to something 

 good and valuable; if tender and diseased, they had better be re- 

 moved and their places tilled with something better. 



It is well to remember that good health is the presrvative of life, 

 and that good nourishing food is the key to health. Do not fail to 

 feed (manure) the orchard, that it maj' enjoy good liealth, be fruit- 

 ful and live long on the land in which it is planted. 



If trees are received from the nurserj' this spring, they should be 

 unpacked and carefully heeled in immediately: at no time shotild 

 the roots be exposed to the wind and sun; and when taken to the 

 field for planting they should be kept covered with blankets or damp 

 burlap sacking. Let the holes be dug amply large to receive all the 

 roots in their natural position. Before setting, examine each tree 

 for borers and destroy any that are found, and, if biidly infested, 

 better discard it. Smooth the ends of the mutilated roots with a 

 sharp knife, cutting them froin the under side and outward, an<i cut 

 the tops back enough to correspond witli the loss of roots, and set 

 as expe<litiously as it can be done well. The process of granulation 

 and making new roots will take place more readil}- from a new cut 

 brought into immediate contact with the soil than from an old dry 

 wound. 



Root-grafts and other nursery stock do much better for being put 

 out early, but not before hard frosts are past. Cuttings of curratits 

 and gooseberries re<|uire to be put in early, but grapes may better 

 be delayed until the last of tlie montli. 



Grafting is now in order (See article on another page). 



New strawberry beds may be itiade asearl^' as the ground is ready, 

 and most frecjuently the early setting does tlie best in vegetables. 



Raspberries, blackberries ;ind gra[)es that were buried in the soil 

 or covered with earth during the winter, should be examined once a 

 week or oftener. If the buds are swelling, remove the soil and get 

 the canes out before thej- start into growth. 



In the kitchen garden the hotbeds and cold frames should be care- 

 fully attended to. giving water and air whenever needed, and asi)ar- 

 agus, beets, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, lettuce, parsnip, jieas, 

 radish and spinach seed may all be safely sown in warm borders 

 as early as the ground can be got ready, but the tender varieties 

 will not do out before about next month, but such as bear trans- 

 planting should be sown in hotbeds or cold frames. 



