5 \ 
70 ANNUAL REPORT. 
dry to work comfortably, all ditching can be postponed till after the 
turfing. 
The tools needed for turfing I will now describe. They consist of 
a turfing axe, a strong three pronged hook and a hoe, a bog hoe or 
one made on purpose, of the same shape but lighter. Te hook 
must be yery strong, with prongs eight to ten inches long, curving 
inwards a little, and furnished with a strong handle. The hoe 
should be ground sharp and kept in that condition. The axe is 
made for the purpose, with a broad edge and perpendicular ends, 
the handle fitting close to the top so as to prevent roots from catch- 
ing between it and the axe. The axe has three edges properly. An 
old broad axe is sometimes used for turfing, but is heavier and much 
inferior to a real turfing axe. These tools are sufficient for the ope- 
ration called turfing, which we will now describe. 
If the ground has been covered with brush to any considerable 
extent, I would recommend turning the turf up to the air and sun, 
letting them remain exposed as long as possible. If it is a hay bot- 
tom I would advise deep turfing and grading in strips of convenient 
width, sanding as quickly as possible, and at all events before the 
inverted grass roots have sprouted. In turfing begin with the axe, 
cutting straight parallel lines fifteen to eighteen inches apart; then 
crosswise in the same manner, leaving the turf in squares of a con- 
venient size to handle. The axeman should be followed by another 
with the hook or hoe, who will either turn up the turf to the weather, 
or invert it as the case may require. Bush turfing need net be very 
deep, unless it be to lower the surface; but grass turfing cannot be 
too deep. Turf holding briers, rose-bushes or other vegetation hard 
to kill, should be put in separate piles. If any slough holes exist, 
wéich require filling, they will furnish a convenient receptacle for 
these, only he careful to put them in so deep as never to hear from 
them again. 
The next operation is grading, which consists in some instances, 
in carefully turning and adjusting the turf, so as to render the sur- 
face even; in other instances the turf has to be removed, or partly 
turned and partly removed. Sometimes low places can be conve- 
niently raised by using several thickness of turf, in which cases about 
33 per cent. should be allowed for settling, when the turf rots. It is a 
good plan when turf is used for this purpose to give it a dressing of 
an inch or two of mud from the ditches. Any roots protruding from 
the mud or turf should be pulled out or cut close to the surface. 
The sharpened hoe is useful for this purpose. 
Surplus turf must be removed to the upland, never burned on the 
bog. Careful examination should now be made for any places that 
remain too wet, and if required additional ditches be cut. A ditch 
sufficiently wide and deep to drain the springs, and prevent the en- 
croaching of foul vegetation from the upland, should always enclose 
a bog. The surplus turf piled outside of this makes a very good 
fence against cattle, which should never be allowed to trample a 
bog. A narrow walk between the outside ditch and fence is a con- 
venient and useful arrangement. . 
The bog is now ready for sanding. Pits for this purpose should 
be opened at convenient points around the bog, so that the greatest 
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