32 2 da Bepors.”. \20aknye 
pare the ground. In commencing de novo on the prairie, I should firs 
sod in June. I should let it sweat till October. I would then backset 
ing up two or three inches of new ground. (I am supposing you ai 
to plant aiong the highway the whole length of your farm. In the 
would plant it to potatoes. I prefer potatoes for this purpose because the gro 
gets worked over more in growing this crop than any other you would be | il y 
to plant. After digging the potatoes in September, I would then p he 
ground as deep as I possibly could; the deeper the better. And then Ivy 
harrow thoroughly. I would have all the holes dug before I took up a eauet: 
I would dig big holes, not very deep but a good ways across; deep enough so ~ 
you can throw in dirt, good mellow black soil, forming a little mound in the 
bottom of the hole to set the tree on. Then, while an assistant holds the tree in 
an upright position, manipulate the fine, soft, mellow earth all among the roots, 
spreading them out full length, so they nestle and lay comfortable hke and 
natural. It any of the roots are bruised and mangled trim them off aa sitten 
with a sharp knife; and also cut out all dead roots. 
Too much care can not be exercised in transplanting forest trees. In fecha 
them up get all the root you can, especially small fibrous roots. Don’t allow the 
roots to be exposed to sun or wind, Don’t let them freeze while out of the 
ground: Plan your work so as to have the least possible number of hours inter- 
vene from the time the tree is lifted from its native spot till it is in the ground 
again. Should unavoidable delays occur, heel them in, or better still, bury them 
all oyer in loose earth, taking them out as you plant them. After getting the 
roots comfortably arranged, shovel the fine, black, mellow soil in, pressing it 
firmly. You don’t want to tramp it. 
I think most good sized trees, especially the Cottonwood, do better planted 
somewhat deeper than they originally stood. 
Don’t drown your trees with water. Many people heave in several buckets of 
water in each hole. This is unnecessary. Your tree don’t want to stand in a 
mortar bed. More trees are killed by too much water than by toolittle. If pos- 
sible, mulch thoroughly as soon as planted. Mulch with any good manure. 
Ship manure is best. Old hay or straw is good. 
If the ground is reasonably moist when the planting is done, good, thorough 
mulching will protect the tree from drouth*far more effectually than indiserimi- 
nate bucketfuls of cold water. Cold water is a good thing in its place, but needs 
to be used with some judgment. 
Don’t mutilate your trees. This trimming up to bare poles and then cutting 
the top off may be necessary in very exposed localities, as too mueh top resists 
the wind to such an extent as to loosen the hold of the roots to the soil. This 
won't'do. In such localities plant small trees. A tree no larger than a rawhide 
riding-whip, with its full complement of fibrous roots, will soon get away from 
such trees as are usually planted along highways; provided, always, you plant it 
in ground which has been thoroughly prepared, and then give it the same care, 
protection and cultivation you do your corn when you get fifty bushels per acre. 
If I was in a hurry, and couldn't wait, and must have big trees at once, I would 
take up root enough so there would be no necessity of cutting off the top; only 
trimming the top into symmetry. It would be, perhaps, necessary to steady and 
brace it against the wind until well rooted. How to do this your own ingenuity 
should suggest. 
