HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 377 



lot of one year old plants putting them in tight boxes; cover with 

 a wet sack provided for the purpose; then they are taken to a 

 cellar or some outhouse where they are trimmed, roots straight- 

 ened, wetted and again placed in shallow boxes, and covered as 

 before, when they are taken to the planters. Four men work to 

 a better advantage than any other number. One man with a 

 spade makes holes for the other three, each being provided with 

 a tin pan, holding about fifty plants, and each stradling the row 

 holding the plant in the left hand on one side of the hole as near 

 level as possible; with the right hand draw back the fresh earth 

 which was thrown out and press firmly about the plant. By this 

 method planting can be done with good success even when the 

 weather is dry and warm. 



My idea of the best system of renewing is, to set a new plan- 

 tation every spring, and let each one bear two crops of fruit. 

 This is the best system we have ever tried in our locality. Some 

 varieties, such as Countess, Charles Downing, Manchester and 

 Downer's Prolific invariably yield their largest crop the second 

 year, while other varieties, like the Wilson, may do their best 

 the first season and would not be profitable to keep for a second 

 crop. After a little experience the grower will soon learn which 

 is best. By this means, after the first year, we have a bed in 

 full bearing, one in partial bearing, and a new one coming on 

 each season; considerable land is required, it is true, and much 

 work, but the results are more profitable and almost a certainty. 

 My experience and observations are that the best method for 

 field culture, is the matted row system. The cultivation should 

 be thorough, never letting the ground get hard or weedy during 

 the growing season. Lay the first runners along the row and let 

 them take root; cut off the very late runners, as there will be 

 plenty of bearing plants without them, and the ground should 

 not be more than half covered with plants. About the first of 

 November, or when the ground is frozen hard enough to hold up 

 a wagon, mulch with slough grass, straw or corn stalks, or an y 

 coarse material free from foul seeds. The object of mulching is 

 to protect the plants from thawing and freezing during the warm 

 spells in winter and early spring. Be careful not to get it too 

 deep — just enough to hide the plants. If the land is sandy, 

 rake the mulch between the rows in the spring and leave it; if 

 on clay land, take it off and cultivate with small tooth culti- 

 vator a number of times. When the fruit begins to set put the 

 mulch back; it keeps all the weeds down and the fruit clean. 

 Vol. IV— 48. 



