HOKTICUTURALL SOCIETY. 103 



the Duchess escaped all right — on low ground, they were in most 

 instances killed or badly damaged. On low land the temperature 

 would be several degrees colder than it was on high land. It is 

 my opinion that 10° colder would have killed every Duchess tree 

 in Fillmore county, at least. Not 10° colder for a day or two and 

 then moderating a little, but down to from 40° to 55° below for 

 days and weeks together, will freeze the life out of anything I have 

 ever tried. 



You place a calf on the south side of a wire fence, with only two 

 barbe\l wires on it, and he may stand it one night against a north- 

 wester, though he may be in ever so good condition for winter, fat 

 sleek, but I think a few days of freezing cold weather will take the 

 life out of him. The same way with the apple tree. It may be 

 thoroughly ripened up in the fall, but a long dry, intensely cold 

 winter will fix it for the spring clearing up. 



Now, this is my opinion, based on long experience, though it 

 be in opposition to some of our veteran horticulturists. I am not 

 much acquainted with the Russians. What little success I have 

 had has been mainly with the Duchess. The Tetofsky is as hardy 

 but not as profitable with me. Cannot give you the exact date of 

 planting the first Duchess — about 1865 or 1866. The first Wealthy 

 were planted about the time they were first for sale by nursery- 

 men. Though none of them planted at that time are sound — of 100 

 bought of Mr. Jewell — some are in fair condition. I kept on plant- 

 ing Wealthy until the winter of '84-5; I think about 1,200 in all. 

 Since then have not planted many. The younger ones were all 

 killed down to the snow line that winter; have let them sprout up 

 from near the ground. They do not make a very handsome tree, 

 for I let them form a protection for themselves. They are just 

 coming into bearing. 



My location is what was burr oak and hazel brush land, on the 

 south side of a branch of Root river, about twelve acres in orchard, 

 elevation high, ground sloping in nearly all directions. I do not 

 see that it makes any difference which way it slopes, only on the 

 very highest points the half hardy do best. 



The soil is what geologists call loess loam. There is no stone, 

 sand, or gravel, until you get down 33 feet. It is neither sticky 

 clay or sandy, very loose, spades easily to that depth, stands either 

 dry or wet weather well. No particular treatment before planting 

 — just have the ground in condition to raise a good crop of grain. 

 I plant corn among my trees, and cultivate enough each year to 

 give a good healthy growth — not much danger of getting too large 

 a growth. I have planted trees on new ground the second year 

 after being broken. I plow the ground just as I do for any other 

 farm crop, stake off for the rows, then plow two furrows, throwing 

 each way, making a dead furrow. That is good enough for this 

 soil at least, and you will find it saves labor. I used to dig great 

 holes with a spade. That is too hard work and no better. 



I prune very little. The less cutting you do the better it is for 

 your tree. My orchard is protected on south and west by cotton- 

 wood and soft maple trees. A grove of what is commonly known 



