258 MINNESOTA STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



prevent occasional warm spells throwing out the plants. If too long 

 warm weather continues the frames should be opened up and air given 

 occasionally to prevent the plants from starting to grow. 



The latter part of March or when warm weather is at hand the frames 

 are uncovered and plenty of air given, but no light is given until the plants 

 are thawed out, that is the sun should not be allowed to work on the 

 plants before they are ready to grow. Plants thus kept will make strong 

 healthy plants and may be unco\ered quite early and the sashes used for 

 other plants. 



CULTURE OF VIOLETS. 



READ BEFORE THE STATE FLORISTS' ASSOCIATION, BY E. A. VENZKE, ST. 



PAUL. 



The cuttings are taken from the blooming plants about the 15th of 

 March. By that time the main runners are in right condition for propa- 

 gating, although if enough plants can be sacrificed it is best to use the 

 younger crowns, as they invariably make the best and strongest plants- 

 They are at once potted in 2£ or 3 inch pots, for they can all be had with 

 roots, and put in a light, cool place in the greenhouse. Care must be 

 taken that the young plants are well syringed, for during the month of 

 April the red spider will very quickly attack them, and in almost every 

 case destroy them, or make them useless to plant out. They should be 

 set out quite early, say about the first week in May or even earlier if the 

 weather is thought favorable, so that the young plants may get a fair 

 start before hot weather sets in During tbe months of July and August 

 extra care must be taken that the plants do not suffer for the want of wa- 

 ter, for right there is where the so much dreaded violet disease originates, 

 although a majority of growers claim it originates in the greanhouse. 

 Such is not the case. To my belief it originates during the hot and dry 

 summer months, but seldom makes its appearance to any extent before 

 the plants are housed. During dry spells they should be watered 

 thoroughly at least twice a week, which will also prevent the red spider 

 from getting the best of them. By the 15th of September they will be 

 ready to be planted on benches in the greenhouse or in the violet pit. A 

 good preparation of soil for violets is one part of heavy clay, one part of 

 rotted sod, one part of well rotted cow manure (the latter should be at 

 least three years old ) and one part of very coarse gravel, put on the bench 

 to the depth of at least 5 inches. With sufficient drainage this has given 

 good satisfaction. 



After planting on the bench they must be syringed freely and given 

 plenty of air both day and night as long as the weather is favorable in 

 order to kill off ail the red spiders which may possibly have been brought 

 in from out of doors. The iirst perfect flowers may be expected about the 

 15th of October. With a temperature of 45 to 48 degrees at night and 60 

 to 65 during the day the plants will be kept in a good, healthy, growing 

 condition. About the middle of January they must have several feedings 

 of liquid cow manure in short successions; they will then continue to 

 bloom until April or later, provided the red spider, which is one of the 

 greatest enemies to the violet, is kept under control. 



