GRAPES. 281 
be thoroughly wet before they are placed in the hole. People generally 
do not plant vines, fruit trees, or shade trees deep enough in this state, 
and the result is failure. In the Eastern states the clay comes nearer the 
surface than in Minnesota, and the manner of planting there is not a safe 
guide for us. When the hole is nearly full of dirt pour in a pailful of 
water, and then put on two or three inches of fine soil so that it will not 
bake or harden. Donot plant when the soil is very sticky, and do not dig 
the holes any faster than you plant,and keep the roots of your plants wet 
with a carpet or other covering over them, so that they will not get dry 
before setting. Be careful and not place any manure next to the roots or 
in the holes. If you do there is danger of the roots drying up, or fungi 
may attack them. Old and well-rotted manure is beneficial to enrich the 
soil, but should not come in contact with the roots when first set out, and 
fresh manure should not come in contact with the roots or vines at any 
time. The vines can be set seven feet apart in the row and the rows 
eight feet apart. They do wellin garden culture for many years set much 
nearer than this. The vines should be two years old or a very strong one 
year old. 
CUTTINGS. 
Vines can be bought so cheaply now,that those who desire early results 
should not wait for cuttings to bear. Of course, if one is growing vines 
for sale, or to enlarge his own vineyard from choice varieties which he al- 
ready has, then the planting of cuttings may be desirable. Cuttings 
may be taken from the vine at any time after the frost has killed the 
leaves, and generally at almost any time during the month of October in 
this state. The short-jointed kind should be cut with three buds, and 
the long-jointed with two buds. They should be cut close below the 
lower eye, at right angles with the slope of the lower bud, as the roots 
form more readily just under an eye. The upper cut can be made an inch 
or two above the upper bud at right angles with it, and slanting upwards 
so that the upper point is on the same side as the bud. Of course roots 
will start from each eye placed under ground, but if there are several buds 
so placed, the roots will be more scattering and generally not.so strong as 
those where only one bud is under ground. The cuttings should be 
buried in the ground ten or fifteen inches deep in a dry place. As soon as 
the ground is fit to work in the spring, take aspade and open a space 
as deep as the cutting is long, leaving the side against which the cutting 
is to be set slanting at an angle of 45 degrees, so that the upper bud comes 
even with the top of the ground; or if there is danger from cut worms, 
leave the upper bud sufficiently above the surface of the ground so that the 
worm cannot reach it. Set the cuttings two to six inches apart along the 
slanting side of the excavation and fill in with soil half way to the top of the 
ground, and then with your foot stamp the earth against it as compactly 
as you can, and then fill up and stamp again against the cuttings as they 
stand on an angle. Cuttings do much better if placed in a partially 
shaded place, as on the north side of a fence or where the soil is rather 
moist, or if protected from the heat of the sun by putting a board on the 
south side of them slanting a little over the cuttings. In dry weather 
they should be thoroughly watered two or three times a week. 
I have never been able to make a cutting grow which was set in the 
fali in the ordinary manner, and I advise against the experiment being | 
