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282 MINNESOTA STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY 
madeinthisclimate. The cuttings from some varieties grow more readily 
than from others. Eldorado and Roger’s Hybrids are grown very easily 
from cuttings, while I have never been successful with cuttings from the 
Delaware, although one grape grower here has been very successful with 
cuttings from that variety. 
VARIETIES. 
The different varieties have been so fully described in your horticultural 
reports that I will try and be brief in what I say in regard to them. The 
following do well with me: White—Antoinette, Belinda, Duchess, Eido- 
rado, Martha, Pocklington; black—Concord, Janesville, Worden, Rogers 33; 
red—Brighton, Delaware, Rogers Nos. 3,.9, 15, Wyoming Red and Wood- 
ruff’s Red. 
Antoinette and Belinda are similar, except the latter is a few days the 
earlier. Both are seedlings of the Concord, hardy, large. productive, de- 
licious and free from disease. Eldorado is my favorite, the earliest and 
best grape which I have, and the vine is a rank grower, Planted in the 
vicinity of staminate varieties it does firstrate. Duchess is superb,and a 
good keeper. Martha is a fine grape, sweet and productive. Pocklington is 
good in dry seasons. Rogers Nos. 3, 9 and 15, are the most productive 
grapes which I have; large, showy grapes, good quality, long keepers, and 
hang on the vine well. No. 3, however, loses its flavor after three or 
four weeks. Everybody knows the Delaware. Wyoming Red is early, pro- 
ductive, hardy, good quality,medium size.and a beautiful red. Brighton is 
a good grape, of the finest quality, productive and has beautiful bunches. 
Concord needs no description from me. Worden is very much like Con- 
cord, but a trifle earlier. Janesville, hardy,productive; quality, second or 
third rate. Rogers 33, large, early, showy, productive,compact bunches, 
good quality. The following varieties have not proved satisfactory with 
me, viz: Rogers 44, Champion, Lady, Hartford, Moore’s Early, Early 
Victor. Whoever plants Eldorado, Brighton and Rogers No. 9, with 
Belinda and Antoinette to fertilize them, can have a royal feast on grapes, 
if they are properly cared for. 
TRAINING. 
The first year let one cane grow without any trimming except pinching 
off any side shoots or those which may possibly start out near the crown 
of the roots. Nor do I allow but one cane to grow the second year, yet, if 
it is a vigorous vine, I pinch off the end when it has reached four or five 
feet. After the second year I train the vine horizontally along the lower 
wire of the trellis and the laterals,which grow from the upper side of the 
cane, are trained to the upper wires. The buds on the lower side of the 
main cane are rubbed off or cut out. Of course this main cane is not al- 
lowed to run beyond the end of the trellis, but is either pinched off or 
turned upwards and trained to the post or upper wires. The laterals are 
cut back each fall to one, two, or three buds, according to the number of 
laterals or the strength of the cané. Each bud will generally produce 
three bunches of grapes, and ordinarily twelve or fifteen buds producing 
36 to 45 bunches are enough. 
FALL PRUNING. | 
I think the best time for fall pruning is soon after the leaves have 
fallen. The remaining canes and buds seem to continue to absorb nutri- 
ment through the roots, and a large part of the canes having been cut 
