STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 53 
will soon commence, but the vines and cuttings should always be dug and pruned 
or prepared in the fall and buried in a dry bank, or packed in moss or sand and 
kept in a cool cellar. During the first season but one cane should be allowed to 
‘grow upon each plant, and all others kept broken out, and nothing further is re- 
quired except frequent cultivating to keep weeds down and soil mellow. 
In the following November the vines should be pruned and receive some pro- 
tection. such as covering with evergreen boughs, leaves or corn straw, or a shov- 
elfull cf earth may be thrown over them. The first pruning is a very simple 
operation, being only to cut away all the season’s growth but about three buds. 
being careful to make the cut an inch or so above the upper one. The second 
season after planting the ground should be kept thoroughly cultivated up to the 
middle of July, and unless the vines are very weak two canes are allowed to 
row for one the previous year, and all other sprouts are kept down. This sea- 
‘son it is better not to let the vines run at will, but keep them tied up to stakes. 
Any small poles will answer for the purpose. The vineyard will require prun- 
ing again in November or early winter, and protection ass the previous year. 
‘The pruning this time is also very simple, being to cut the lowest cane down to 
three eyes and the upper one to six or eight. The third season, if strong two 
year old vines were used for planting, some fruit may be expected, anda perma- 
nent trellis may be erected, or if stakes are preferred substantial ones should be 
provided, and one set for each vine. In after years another will be required. 
To describe trellises and the various systems of training the vine would require 
illustrations and make this paper much too long, therefore | will leave it for the 
subject of another occasion. 
Most people seem to prefer rooted plants for setting in the vineyard, probably 
thinking that they will gain time in their fruiting, but my experience has been 
that there is not very much gained by it, asa good cutting, planted where it is 
to remain, will produce a good crop about the fourth season, and the rooted 
plant will not be dog much before that time. The new beginner must pur 
chase his first stock of vines, and the cost will be several times greater than that 
for cuttings. and the rooted plants are liable to receive a severe check in digging, 
transportation and transplanting. but if rooted plants are to be used, either 
layers or strong two year old vines are the best. Older plants lose too largea 
proportion of their roots in digging, and the roots of one year old plants are not 
matured and mostly perish. What is said above does not apply so much where 
a man raises his own plants and can dig and set them without exposure. 
In order to avoid the expense and inconvenience of purchasing vines as well 
as to be certain of getting just what is wanted, every grape grower should have 
a nursery for growing his own plants. There are three methods of growing 
grape plants, viz: From seed layers and cuttings. As the seed process is only 
resorted to for the purpose of originating new varieties we will pass on to layer- 
ing. This is a favorite method of propogating with many people on account of 
the nice roots produced and its simplicity and absolute certainty, and some ya- 
rieties as the Delaware do not propagate well by any other. For layering the 
gardener at the time of the annual pruning selects and leaves such canes as 
will answer his purpose and as should necessarily be removed. They must be 
such as can be easily bent down to the ground. In the spring, or before the 
buds start, shallow trenches are opened, into which the branch is pegged down. 
A vigorous cane of the previous year’s growth is usually taken. As the season 
advances each bud will send up a vigorous shoot which had better be kept tied 
