7 
STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 59 
dry weather so common at that time. It certainly is a mistake to attempt 
to set them so early in this State. There is little choice between spring 
and fall setting. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. 
Planting and Cultivation. 
Let old plants severely alone, using nothing but newly rooted runners. 
When they are received from a distance, undo the bundles at once, dip the 
roots in a mixture of soil and water, and trench out in the shade. In warm 
weather, watering bundles without untying them, also getting mud on the 
crowns, causes plants to rot. Select a cloudy day if possible. Set by line 
three feet by one foot, if a horse is to be used in cultivation; otherwise, 
two feet by one foot. Throw the plants into a pail of water, or set the 
roots in a little mud and water at the bottom of the pail, and take a plant at. 
a time from it as wanted. Make a good sized hole for each plant with a hoe 
or garden trowel; spread the roots out in natural position, and pack fine 
earth firmly about them. Do not cover the crowns with dirt or put them in 
such a position that the rains will do this, as it is likely to destroy them 
altogether. If the number of plants set is not too large, it is an excellent. 
plan, in case the weather at the time is clear and dry, to shade by putting a 
little straw, a pie plant leaf, or something of the sort over each plant. 
Remove this shade at night and replace in the daytime until the plants cease 
to wilt. Watering pays in dry weather. Evening is the best time. The 
coldest water may be used, as the strawberry, unlike most plants, has a 
great relish for it. Cultivate the same as corn, keeping the ground free 
from weeds through the entire season., The cultivator or hoe will turn the 
runners into line with the rows where they may be allowed to take root, 
furming matted rows a foot or more in width. Some growers remove the 
runners and cultivate in hills, but as a rule this plan does not succeed in 
Minnesota. Beginners, at least, should not attempt it. On the approach 
of winter weather cover the whole bed to the depth of two or three inches 
with clean straw or marsh:hay. In the spring after plants show signs of 
starting, if they were set the previous fall, remove the covering from the 
bed, (it may be burned off without the slightest injury to the plants), and 
cultivate as directed above. If set the spring before, pu~h the covering a 
little aside, leaving it between the rows. This mulching serves to keep the 
ground moist, the weeds down, and the frnit clean. If weeds spring up 
thickly in the rows they should be pulled. After the bearing season entirely 
remove the mulching, clean out the rows thoroughly, either mowing down 
the plants or not as will most expedite the work of weeding, and cultivate 
as before. After getting two or three crops it is generally best to plough 
up the bed, being careful to have a new one started to take its place. Ifthe 
ground is very weedy, the simplest and best way is to start a new bed each 
year, get one full crop, and then turn it under. This method secures the 
finest fruit, but not quite so early as ‘in old beds. Here, again, much 
depends upon varieties, and something upon soil. Whatever plan is adopted 
it is of the first importance that beds shouid be kept free from weeds the 
first season. Owing to the tendency of the strawberry to throw out new 
roots close to the crown, the rows soon become ridged up. A bed may be 
at least partially restored to a level and greatly benefited by the application 
