STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 239 



through the year or is spring the season of the greatest amount of 

 precipitation? — the soil and the general depth below the surface 

 where water is found. All the above points have more or less 

 bearing on the successful growing of forest trees. 



The state of Minnesota is eminently a timber growing state. 

 The soil is dry, yet water is found near the surface. These are two 

 important factors in tree growing. The snows of winter act as 

 mulch to the roots, and afford moisture for spring growth. 



The varieties and species of trees that may be successfully 

 -grown in Minnesota, are almost limitless. The valuable conifers 

 are found here in native forest; also the oak, maples, walnuts, 

 elms, lindens, birch, cottonwood, and many varieties of the 

 poplars, with other species more or less valuable. With these 

 evidences before us showing what nature has done, we have the 

 ground work and information for the acts of man. 



Right here comes in the question for the settler, farmer, specu- 

 lator and financier, can these or any of tbem grow trees without 

 previous training in the school of forestry and horticulture ? 



Answer, yes. 



Any man who can prepare the ground for the growing of a 

 good crop of corn, can with equal care and labor grow trees. 



Prepare the ground by thorough cultivation, for at least two 

 years from breaking, before planting trees. First break the prai- 

 rie in June, turn all the sod under; "do not cut and cover," but do 

 the work well. In October, backset or cross the breaking three 

 inches deeper than the original breaking. Crop with wheat, oats 

 or flax the following year. After the crop has been removed, 

 plow the ground at least seven inches deep, harrow thoroughly 

 and if white or black walnuts are to be plaoted, mark the ground 

 as for corn, four feet each way, and plant them in the fall, plant- 

 ing the nut with the shuck on, in the corners where the lines 

 cross. Step on the nut after it is dropped in place. After all the 

 planting has been done, harrow and roll the entire field. 



If young conifers, larch or deciduous trees are to be planted, 

 defer your marking until the following spring, when the ground 

 should be marked as above described, and if to be planted in coni- 

 fers, secure nursery grown, once transplanted, three year old trees, 

 but if deciduous trees are to be planted, get strickly first-class one 

 year old trees, and plant where the lines cross. 



I have found after twenty years' experience that the best and 

 cheapest way to plant is with a nursery spade. Place the spade 

 point in the corner where the lines cross, hold the handle perpen- 



