STATE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 365 



Red raspberry plants can be easily protected by weighting the tops down and 

 turning earth upon them with a plow. 



Set blackcaps as closely together in the row as possible, they then support each 

 other and do not break down, about two feet apart is the proper distance. Let the 

 red varieties make narrow hedge rows and cultivate or chop out the surplus suck- 

 ers. Set raspberries in good soil, cultivate thoroughly; always have the rows run 

 east and west; the plants are less liable to injury from our prevalent west winds; 

 are not so much affected by dry weather, and are better covered by drifting snows 

 in winter, than if the rows ran north and south. Do not use any stakes or trelU.ses 

 for raspberry plants, but pinch out the tips of the new growth of blackcaps when 

 eighteen inches high and pinch back the young shoots of the reds, when they show 

 above the foliage. I never protect raspberries or blackberries and have never had 

 Turner, Thwack, Souhegan, Tyler or Ohio injured by winter; Gregg, Cuthbert and 

 other red varieties not named were partially hurt last winter; and gave but a half 

 crop in 1885. 



In blackberries, Snyder is superior to any other variety in hardiness, and bears 

 some berries every year, with a full crop generally in alternate seasons. It suckers 

 less than any other variety and hence is valuable for the garden. Taylor's Prolific 

 is next to Snyder in hardiness and later in season, but is not as reliable. 



Do not give blackberry plants any fall cultivation; after they begin to show the 

 berries, stop cultivating until the following spring. If autumn growth is encour- 

 aged, it is tender and will not withstand the winter; let the wood ripen early and 

 the canes are much hardier. 



There is another class of small fruits which is perfectly hardy, which does not 

 receive the attention that it deserves, viz.: the currant. 



If given good soil and culture and heavily mulched during the heat of .summer, 

 a crop is almost certain. 



The only enemy is the currant worm and this is easily subdued without any 

 injury to plants or fruit by the use of powdered White Hellebore either mixed with 

 flour or combined with water. 



In varieties, use Cherry and Victoria, red kinds; White Grape and Lee's Prolific 

 (Black,) and if you have plenty of mone}' try Fay's Prolific, but don't be disap- 

 pointed, if you find that this much lauded variety only produces currants. Goose- 

 berries are also easily grown and require similar treatment to currants, except that 

 they are subject to mildew in some localities, for which a mulch of soft coal ashes 

 I have found to be the cheapest and best remedy. The American varieties are 

 preferable to foreign kinds. 



With the fact that so extensive a field is open to every one having even a small 

 garden, can there be any excuse for not growing a sufficient supply of fruit? 



The time spent by an ordinary family in grumbling about the climate and the 

 high prices of fruits, will be sufficient, if expended in caring for a fruit garden, to 

 give an ample allowance. 



Then the luxury of fresh fruit, the aroma, the delicate flavor, of that just picked 

 from the home garden, which has not been touched or profaned by foreign hands, 

 is ample compensation for any extra labor, and is something that stands as a reward,, 

 not otherwise obtainable, for well doing. 



