2 Teneriffe. [Jan., 
great disappointment. I found afterwards that it is seldom seen at 
a great distance during the warmest months of summer, but is 
very clear and distinct during the cold months, or before rain and 
immediately after it, when the transparency of the air is greatly 
increased by a certain quantity of vapour which is held in suspen- 
sion through the atmosphere. Besides, the upper part of the Peak, 
or “ sugar-loaf,” which is the only part covered with whitish-coloured 
pumice, reflects more light than the sides of the voleano, which 
are covered with trachytic lava; thus the cone reflects a whitish 
light, which contrasts with the surrounding sky, and enables it to 
be seen at a distance, when it subtends an angle sufliciently large 
to make an impression on the retina. As the Peak may serve to 
direct the navigator and enable him to verify his position, the exact 
distance from which it can be seen is of importance. We stood 
rapidly on our course, and when we approached within twenty miles 
of the island, we saw the top of the Peak glistening through some 
breaks in a mass of cumulose clouds; from its extreme whiteness, 
I thought that the cone was covered with snow, but it was merely 
the reflected light from the pumice. 
In a few hours we came to an anchor off Orotava, on the north 
side of the island, which is exposed to all the swell caused by the 
N.E. trade-winds. Such rolling I had never experienced, the 
vessels occasionally showing almost their keels, or what they had 
upon their decks. The landing, however, is not bad, as it is 
sheltered behind numerous pinnacles of volcanic rocks, which break 
the force of the rollers. 
What a new scene presented itself when I put my foot on 
shore, so different from what I had left in London. Such rich 
dazzling colours, and such Murillo-looking countenances among the 
lower orders, set off in a great degree by a glowing mid-day sun. 
The graceful and picturesque dress of the peasantry was particularly 
striking to a new-comer; the women wear no bonnets, but a half- 
square of white kerseymere or cashmere, or fine flannel trimmed 
with white satin ribbon with rosettes at the corners, is thrown 
over the back of the head; unfortunately, its neatness is spoilt by 
an odious steeple-crowned black hat, similar to that worn by women 
in parts of Wales. Their hair, which is always attended to with 
great care, is drawn tightly over the forehead, made as smooth as 
possible, and occasionally collected at the back imto one or two 
tails, and most have a small round curl fixed close to the temples. 
Their tall figures and graceful movements arewet off by their pretty 
feet, which are clothed, when they go to church, with silk stockings 
and coloured satin shoes. The ladies follow the Paris fashions, 
with the addition, when they go out, of the graceful mantilla of 
black lace, which hangs loose down on the figure, and that regular 
accompaniment of the Spanish belle, the expressive fan, the 
