462 LEM''IS'S AMERICAN SPORTSMAN. 



good food cooked in a wholesome and sensible manner, — these same 

 individuals, we say, when seated at the festive board, are the very 

 foremost to find fault if the dishes are not served up in becoming 

 style, or rather in accordance with their own peculiar and some- 

 times outlandish notions. 



What gluttony^ forsooth, or sensuality either, is there in prefer- 

 ring a plain roasted potato to a boiled one ? And pray, what glut- 

 tony or sensuality is there in preferring rich venison-soup to thin 

 mutton-broth, or a larded partridge to a young squab, or mellow 

 wine to tart cider? 



Such differences as these are mere matters of habit or education ; 

 and a cannibal may with equal propriety be termed a sensualist 

 when greedily devouring the tender flesh of a young infant, as 

 a refined epicure when warmly extolling the gamy flavor of the 

 leg of a grouse. 



We do not profess to be a good cook, either practically, scienti- 

 fically, or theoretically, nor do we aspire to so enviable a distinc- 

 tion, although the magnus coquus of princely establishments has 

 always been an officer of considerable dignity ; indeed, so highly was 

 the profession esteemed among the luxurious ancients that a good 

 cook, we are informed, was termed hominum servatorenij — the pre- 

 server of mankind.* 



Notwithstanding all this high appreciation of culinary talents, 

 we, like many others, would greatly prefer leaving the branch, 

 with all its honors and practical operations, in the hands of those 

 who have made the scientia popina> their particular study and 

 pursuit ; though we cannot refrain from venturing a few remarks 

 in reference to the art, so far as it concerns the comfort of the 

 sportsman. We do not, however, consider the subject of cookery 

 (as some foolish persons would affect) beneath our notice, but, on 

 the other hand, regret exceedingly that our unavoidable ignorance 

 on this score will confine our observations within a very limited 

 sphere. 



* See "The Cook's Oracle." 



