CELERY-SAUCE. 479 



pared, — not scraped or bruised, after the fashion of some ignorant 

 cooks; then cut it into small pieces and boil in a small portion 

 of "water slowly, till quite tender; poui' off the water through a 

 colander, and boil it, or rather simmer it, again for a few minutes, 

 with suflScient cream and a small particle of butter rolled in floui', 

 and a pinch of salt and pepper. 



The bowl in which it is served should be warm ; the sauce is to 

 be poured on a slice of toast at the bottom. Raspings or crumbs 

 of a French roll are also used in the same way, and answer an 

 excellent purpose. 



The cook should be very careful not to scorch the cream by 

 putting it over a hot fire ; it must be stirred gently while boiling. 

 This sauce, as before said, requires to be made with some tact, and 

 we cannot be too particular in our directions to the cook ; for, if 

 not made exactly right, it is neither palatable nor admissible for 

 game. If burnt, which is the common error committed by stupid 

 cooks in making it, it should be consigned forthwith to the swill- 

 tub, as six drops of such detestable stuff would spoil the flavor of 

 a partridge or grouse. 



If fond of spices, put in a little mace and a clove or two ; we do 

 not, however, recommend it. A shallot or so, a bay-leaf, lemon- 

 juice, orange-peel, or a little parsley, might also be advocated by 

 some of our friends. 



THICKENING FOR SAUCES OR GRAVIES. 



The foundation of all sauces and gravies is the white and brown 

 thickenings of the French cookery-books. These thickenings are 

 indispensable to a well-organized kitchen, and no dinner can be 

 served up properly without their aid. They should always be in 

 the larder for use, and are made as follows : — 



WHITE THICKENING. 



Take a small lump of butter, the size of course in proportion to 

 the use you have for the thickening ; melt it over a slow fire in a 

 tinned or glazed stewpan ; then drain off the buttermilk, and mix 



